The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Brake plate differences

I'm having a challenge figuring out which front end parts to use. On one front end the backing plate is larger than the drum and the 2 adjusting holes are on the top. The other has backing plates that match the drum size with 1 adjusting hole on the bottom. What am I dealing with here? Which ones would be better to use? The smaller plate is supposed to be 52 gmc, the larger is supposed to be 50 chevy.

The one with adjusting holes on top are Huck brakes and the one with the single adjusting holes on the bottom are Bendix brakes. GM made the switch in 51 to Bendix brakes, which are a more modern design. If you have a choice, go with Bendix, IMO. Parts will be more available as they were used up into the '70s. They're also easier to set up and adjust.

Sounds to me like the difference is Huck brakes(1950) and Bendix brakes(about 1952 I think). Huck brakes float and pivot in the center of each shoe. Bendix pivot at the top and are pushed by the cylinder also at the top. The adjuster is at the bottom. Huck system has links from each shoe to a center pivot towards the bottom. They are quite different. Easy way to tell one from the other, is the diameter of the wheel cylinder. Big is Huck. Smaller is Bendix. The spring anchors for Bendix are in the center of the shoe. They just hold the shoe against the backing plate and allow the shoe to float. The anchor for Huck is very different. The Drums are different. So there is a lot to look at. Bendix have a leading and a trailing shoe. One is shorter(the trailing shoe) the other is longer(the leading shoe) Think, wedge. As the drum rotates one shoe is wedged tighter by the motion of the drum. The other shoe is just pressed by the cylinder with the rotation. I know it sounds strange, but just look and imagine the motion.

Wow! By the time you get your 52 back on the road you will be an AD expert from experience.
More info on the upgrade.

https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/adbrakes.htm

Maybe an expert novice.
Haven't opened up the Huck brakes but got into the Bendix. Those are familiar to me, just didn't know they were Bendix.

So I got the front brakes done complete with backing plates and all but when it comes to the rear I have to remove the axle to get that backing plate off correct? The tech tips above I believe just talked about the front end

Also it looks like I will have to grind off the for rivets holding the backing plate on would I just use bolts to secure the backing plate?

Why do you need to remove the rear backing plates?

I am using a 1950 chassis that has huck brakes and I would like to put the bendix brakes from my 52 chassis on it. It's a 52 gmc I started with, but found the chassis was cut up. The more I look at it, it doesn't look doable

Personally, I do not find Huck brakes to be difficult to live with or adjust. Getting the shoes relined ... well, that's another story ... but finding shoes and drums for a 1-ton is difficult for Bendix, too.

I only mention this because from where I sit, I see a lot of discussion by people who make the switch from Huck to Bendix just because ... So far, far the only two semi-valid reasons to make the switch are for parts availability (but I've managed to cover that by accumulating a decent supply of spare parts from others making the switch or simply discarding useable spares), or because Hucks can get a little sporty in panic braking situations. In the second case, if you fear your ability to adequately react to a panic braking situation then I would gently suggest that perhaps the old truck hobby is not for you. Or, that if it is for you, why stop at Bendix? Sounds to me like 4-wheel disc brakes are the real answer. Perhaps coupled with power steering and automatic transmission, autoparking features and air ride suspension. And don't forget your man bun. :P

At any rate, it just seems to me that a lot of people go to a fair amount of trouble and expense to get rid of perfectly fine brakes based on incomplete facts, leading to less-than-optimal decision making.

Are Bendix brakes superior to Huck Brakes? Of course they are. But enough to make it a slam dunk without considering the benefits of *not* converting?
Are Huck Brakes dangerous? No, not if you invest a little bit of time to understand them. Also involves learning to drive *defensively.* I know, I know, hardly anyone does anymore.... Slow down and give it a whirl. If you drive like an idiot, then yes -- they can be dangerous. These trucks aren't Teslas or Priuses you know ...
Are they hard to adjust? No, not really. If *I* can do it ...
Are they hard to find parts for? Not in my experience.
Are the shoes expensive to get relined? Well ... ya got me on that one. Yes they are. Hideously. BUT ... I would posit that the expense is less than the time, effort, aggravation and expense of converting to something else.

Not entirely against the whole idea. I'm just concerned that people might be making these decisions without complete info.

If you consider all of the above and you still wish to upgrade -- by all means.

Respectfully,
JM

Oh, one other thing -- If you *do* switch, please don't throw away your Huck parts. Pass them along to contrarians like myself who still use them.
Thanks!

John

John. Thanks for the input. I just posted a new thread with my dilemma but I think you helped me with what I should do. If I got your reply sooner I wouldn't have made a new thread, although I think it may spur some conversation.
I am going to stick with the Huck brakes because I don't have a prius or a man-bun.
Going to inspect all the parts today, I know at least 1 spring is broken and 1 drum should be replaced along with all shoes.

Well said John!

Pauld ... but I hear man buns and Priuses are in style these days ... And if what I said wasn't ornery enough, ask me about converting to power steering sometime .... But you'll have to do that in a new discussion as I am already in enough trouble with the moderator of this forum (he's planning to incarcerate me in a hog pen ...)

Msmall -- Thanks!

John I started rebuilding my Huck brakes. On a whim I called O'Reilly's and ask them about brake shoes they said they could get them for me, went over there this afternoon picked them up and they are identical to the originals, part number BB 141.$37.00. I have already transferred the hardware over to one of the shoes. Modified an old vise grip to collapse that little stubborn spring, worked great. But I still need to locate a rear drum and the upper spring for both sides. Paul