The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
3 members (Gdads51, UtahYork, 1 invisible), 109 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,191
Posts1,057,364
Members48,469
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 7
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 7
Hi All,

I've got a 40's era 1.5 ton chevy, dually setup, with a PTO on the transmission. The motor turns freely, and when I turn it, the PTO is engaged. I can't seem to get the transmission to shift. It has a small lever on the shift knob that is frozen in place. Is there a trick to getting it to come free?

Thanks!
Attachments
WinchView.jpg (611.55 KB, 152 downloads)

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,101
3
3B Offline
'Bolter
'Bolter
3 Offline
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,101
Hy Chucks40Chevy, welcome, the little lever is a reverse lockout, there should be a lever or knob in the cab that will disengage the PTO when you push or pull it. I would suggest penetrating oil around the shifter ball and the reverse lockout lever. You should check the transmission oil level as well. Good luck with it.

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,885
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,885
With that much open area in the cab, the transmission has probably gotten a lot of water in it from rain, etc. through the shift tower. Pull the top cover off and inspect the gears- - - -you might have some serious rust problems inside.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 7
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 7
Thanks! I'll look for the control knob and let you know...

Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 56
1
'Bolter
'Bolter
1 Offline
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 56
Looks like a heavily modified Chevrolet G506 1-1/2 ton Army truck. The PTO control lever was typically located right in front of the seat, between the drivers legs. As many other modifications as this truck has, it may have been relocated. Looking at the body of the PTO, there will be at least one control rod, or two if it is a dual output PTO. As HotRod Lincoln indicated, I would also remove the shifter top cover, and see what shapr the gears are in. It is not unusual for trucks in Northern locations, and open and exposed to the elements to get water in the transmission. That usually binds up the gears, then when freezing weather comes, the freezing water cracks the case, allowing it to spill its guts when it finally thaws.


WW2Chevy
1942 Chevrolet G506 1-1/2 ton 4x4 Army Cargo w/ winch

(Retro-roco)
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 7
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 7
It is heavily modified, to say the least. The frame has been cut and shortened, as the truck is set up as a log skidder. I imagine they shortened the wheel-base to get the truck up the narrow logging roads up here. The winch frame looks home built to meet their logging needs.

I pulled the transmission cover - and as warned, it is full of rust, and empty on fluids. The rust looks manageable, but I assume the case is shot, which means a new tranny, I assume. Do you know where to get one?

The good news is that the motor looks better every time I look at it. Pulled the distributor cap today, and it is pristine inside. So, we'll see how far the wife lets me go with this one. it would be fun to get it running down the road.

Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,063
Big Bolt Forum Moderator
Big Bolt Forum Moderator
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,063
post some pics of the inside of the tranny, you may find that filling it with some diesel and letting it sit for a few days, it may clean up enough to run a bit. Rusty gears can be cleaned to be made serviceable a lot of times, bearings, probably not. The case is probably the least hurt by rust, but hard to tell without pics. I have no idea on one that age how hard it is to find another trans to drop in.


Mike
1955 Chevy 6400 ex-flatbed (no bed now!) sold September 2023
In the Stovebolt Gallery
1958 Chevy 6400 flatbed W/dump
In the Stovebolt Gallery
1959 Chevy Suburban Owned for almost 20 years, Daily Driver -- sold May 2016
In the Stovebolt Gallery

Sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 56
1
'Bolter
'Bolter
1 Offline
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 56
The Army G506 truck used the same 4 speed transmission as the civilian Chevy trucks from 1940-1946; except for the output bearing retainer. The transmission model number is GKT-134. A lot of the early 40's trucks get restored with updated engines and drivetrains, so it should not be too difficult to find a donor transmission if needed. Most of the bearings are readily available, and as indicated, the gears are heavy duty, and will usually remain serviceable even if rusty.


WW2Chevy
1942 Chevrolet G506 1-1/2 ton 4x4 Army Cargo w/ winch

(Retro-roco)
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 7
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 7
I filled the transmission with diesel - and freed up the gears, so that's good. The gearshift rods and forks are rusted in place. I was able to remove one, but can't get the others to turn the 1/2 turn to remove the rod. I think some acetylene heat may be in order. It looks like the shifter plate is pretty rough as well - I will try and remove it, and then use some electrolysis to remove the rust. We'll see.

The transmission is a K-140 - if that rings any bells for folks.

Thanks again for the recommendations.


Moderated by  69Cuda, Super55 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0