Hi All :^].. The bed, fenders, everything are completed, including the rear cross sill. I've read the threads regarding attaching the tailgate hinges properly, and after looking at the frame etc it looks like I have two options: 1 just drill though the rear stake pocket and run/attach a long (3" ?) bolt hrough the tailgate hinge, front and back faces of the stake pocket. Or... 2 cut 3/4" off the back end of the frame and slip the sill down and out with some jiggling/ coaxing. Then throw the correct size bolt through the tailgate hinge and fasten/lock it down within the pocket core before repositioning and reattaching the rear cross sill. You can probably tell that I'm trying to avoid rewelding the rear cross sill on. If either suggestion sounds flawed/crazy, please let me know. Thanks!
1970 Chevrolet C10 Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny Follow the build in the Project Journal 1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually "Ole Red Girl" In the Stovebolt Gallery More pictures here 1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's Parts trucks- 1951 GMC 9300 | 1951-GMC 9430 | 1951- Chevrolet 1300
I seem to recall from when I did this task that the tailgate hinges can be installed per factory bolt locations without much effort, no need to remove the sill, a wench fits up inside the bottom of the sill gap
You have to be able to feel a nut onto the bolt blind but that’s not usually a big issue You do not want to use long bolts all the way through the stake pocket because the metal will just collapse and never be tight enough
I have small hands so maybe not everyone can do this maneuver, It is very tight
Maybe post a photo or two? Might help us out to figure solutions. -s
On a 3100 at least thru '53, (and I believe a 3600 would be the same) the top hole for the tailgate hinge had a welded in nut. The lower hole should be accessible from below and I believe bolts thru the rear cross sill.
If you don't already have the welded in nut, you're kind of SOL. Here's a pic from my '51 showing the dimensions of the original holes.
[on edit] You might be able to fish a nut down from the top and tack weld it on the back side of the stake pocket. That assumes you can get it past the stop in the pocket. Maybe tack the nut to a welding rod, fish it in and with a keyhole shaped hole, put the bolt in place to hold the nut and tack the nut in place thru the hole enough so it won't turn as you tighten the bolt.
Last edited by klhansen; 04/04/20226:13 AM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Thanks for your feedback guys 😀...It was all helpful and gave me some second thoughts Its a 1953 3/4 ton - old Farm truck from all the welds on it. finally finished painting and assembling the fenders cetera. Fire engine red .I thought that throwing through a long bolt that the stake pocket would buckle. Thanks for confirming. Also I know what you mean about trying to thread the bold up through the bottom with your hands. It's pretty tricky 😜. So I'm in the process of cutting maybe 1â„4" of the top end of the frame so I can squeeze the rear cross dollar down a bit And slip it out. So far so good as I don't want to rush things. I will send a picture of the hinge with A Reverse cap screw in that hole. Once I finally get that tailgate on if it works! Thanks for the suggestions! Sorry for the late reply- I misplaced my kindle :^o
