The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Bleeding brakes made easy?

I thought I was a genius until it did not work. I have a completely new brake system from new master cylinder to brake lines to wheel cylinders. With the entire system completely dry of brake fluid I took a spare master cylinder plug and added a schrader valve so I could pressurize the system I thought with 3-5 pounds pressure at the master cylinder I could go to the closest wheel, open the bleeder valve and all the air would purge until I had brake fluid flowing out. The plan was then to move to each next closest wheel in the system until I got to the end. Problem is I went to the first wheel and nothing. If I pump the brake is was pushing air out but not just by pressurizing the system. I am assuming with pedal up and not depressed the plunger is acting as a seal between the master cylinder reservoir and the brake line? Am I missing something or should this work? My next thought was to build a can to hold brake fluid with a fitting that connects directly to the outgoing brake line and pressurize it with the same plane. I have a 54 3100 with an original style single reservoir master cylinder.

[b][/b]Take a look at this video made by Hagerty.
https://www.hagerty.com/media/videos/how-to-bleed-brakes/
You said you started bleeding the front first You HAVE to start with the rear furthest from the MC. and work your way to the closest.
Good luck
Harold

Find yourself an old pressure pot.

Thanks. I will fall back to the old method of bleeding the brakes. I did learn something new. Start at the farthest wheel.

A pressure bleeder has an internal bladder which holds the fluid and is pressurized with air. That way only fluid enters the system to bleed the brakes. All you were doing was introducing air into the system, it won't work that way.
Fred

I bought a Motive Brake Bleed system from Summitracing, I got it for the dual master with residual presssure valve/ new wheel cylinder installation on my 46 pu, did a dry test for leak check per instructions, then put the fluid in the Motive, pumped it up and boom, 1-2-3-4 the brakes were bled…by myself….
I got the GM plate adapter and used c clamps instead of supplied chains/j hook attachment system.

Don't use "pumped it up" and "boom" in the same sentence. You had me worried for a second.

I'm with Hank -- I have used the Motive Brake Bleed system and it is easy and almost fun

ditto

I have used it on small trucks and on large trucks that have "boosters/tanks/etc".

I've found a pressure pot. A Branick G300. Neither adaptor cap will work on the old master cylinder. Does anyone have a link or a part number for one? I'm considering building one but would rather have one designed for this specific master cylinder.[img]https://www.autopartsdb.net/assets/images/ProductImg/pdp/C/CX4843.JPG[/img]

I made one using a PVC plug. I drilled a hole in it and threaded a schrader valve into it.

I tried the spray bottle trick as shown in this video:

Didn't work very well and ended up getting Fran to help using the traditional two person method.

Find a spare cap and drill and tap it for a hose barb. Make sure to plug the vent hole in the cap. A lot of those caps are pretty generic, fitting what you have.