The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Opinions requested on axle swap dilemma

First I would like to say thanks for this forum. The knowledge pool is killer! I’m in the process of restoring a 53 3800 / 1 ton cab and chasis dually. Pulled the trigger on a 14 bolt for the rear axle swap. I saw no other way to get around the tire, wheel, brake and gearing dilemma. I’ve burned the step by step instructions on the axle swap thread into what’s left of my brain and I think I might have solved the problem with the 14 bolt being roughly 2” to narrow. The problem is I want to keep it a dually and moving the backing plate and using a narrower drum will not work with a 16” dually wheel. Here’s where I need your thoughts, opinions and suggestions. What if I narrowed the frame by 2”….? The frame is tapered front to back. I would make the cut just to the rear of the front body anchor bolt. I would need to drill new holes in the floor for the rear body mounts and I would have to put a spacer in between the rear running board support and the frame to maintain the factory look but that would be easy. Then all I would need to do to the axle is spring perches.

Whatcha all think?

I'd get a different rear end. If I read you right, you want to try to narrow the whole frame from just behind the front cab mounts? That's crazy in my opinion. Everything has to be modified. Keep digging for a rear that is closer in size.

I haven't worked with the swap, but can't you run a different rim? Your answers have to be in the Bolt somewhere. Have you talked with Grigg?

[img]https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/40404/filename/image.jpg[/img]J,
Might be hard to find, but look for a center pinion/ member and do the swap (http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/axles/1%20Ton%20Upgrade/)
Multiple fellow 1-toners have made the swap . It’s simple and you get great results, and with the correct and safe suspension components, including braking, you can achieve highway speeds!

I’ve read the axle swap thread until I got a headache. A SRW drum/hub assembly will not work with dual wheels. A DRW drum/hub assembly is conical in shape to accommodate the curve of the wheel. I have scoured salvage yards and have found nothing close in comparison to the OEM Eaton except the C&C 14 bolt GM. The only other option I can think of is custom spring hangers off the frame and then there would be a clearance issue with the axle u bolts hitting the frame. Narrowing the frame involves modifying 3 cross members and some welding. Keep in mind there is no bed on the back to accommodate. I’m fabing a flat bed.

Considered an overdrive unit, such as a Brownie?

Doesn’t solve the problem with the 18” split rims and the fact that there is only 1 tire available in 7.00 x 18. 16” wheels are plentiful. Plus ring and pinions are plentiful for the C&C 14 bolt. Lockers and limited slips galore.

I'm not following the problem with just swapping the third member/center section of your existing HO72 axle assembly ... ??? A lot of us have done it with both the SRW and DRW 3800 set ups. Easiest way to accomplish what I think is your goal.

Because I will still be stuck using the Factory 18” split rims or spend a bloody fortune on 19.5” wheels and tires and there isn’t many choices with those. With 16’s I can run BFG Mud T/A’s if I wanted. And then there is the brake issue. Rear drums are not available. Then on top of that….the rear springs are not available either and as luck would have it….my drivers side spring is broken. The only benefit I can see with swapping the third member would be my ability to change the gear ratio which is the least of my worries.

Back to your original question, that’s a lot of work for an easy fix.
What are your plans for the truck? Working it, daily driver or a toy? I still have, as many others, kept the factory rims. I’m running radial tire with a tube, while others are running bias ply with tubes. Keeps the original factory look. As far as the drivability, for a 70 year old truck, with the weight capacity it was built to handle and a i-beam front axle, it is what it is!
Jim

What kind and size tire are you using may I ask?

The rear springs are available
A spring and suspension shop will make a new leaf for you
Bring them the broken one and the new bushings that go in the ends

I recently got two front leaves made for a 53 1 ton
Was a normal day work for the shop, nothing special about it.
-s

7.00/7.50R17
[img]https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...8765034-B9AA-48E0-867D-2257BE00B0D0.jpeg[/img]

19.5's were used clear up into the 70's on the bread trucks. (Grummans, et al) Can still be found in the older wrecking yards. Then again, you're in MI, so probably shipping is the killer, eh? Still, there's LOTS of yards within a days travel.

I had collected several 19.5’s until I was able to find 22.5’s, so have plenty of spares.

Ed

Gents -- it's too bad we haven't heard yet from GriggIII or Amtrakjoe as both of them have done the rear 3rd member upgrade and faced the wheel/tire issue with their highway capable 3800 DRW trucks.

And if 3800 brake drums are so unavailable, why do I now have three complete sets in my parts collection (one is heading to AmtrakJoe, though)???

OP -- Sorry my article gave you such a headache. It was written to be read once, understood and followed a second time while performing the work. It's a *very* simple procedure.

Like many others, I routinely run highways (at posted speed limits) as well as back roads on my original multi-piece rims and new bias ply tires and huck brakes. No issues. BUT ... it doesn't handle or perform quite like a new truck, either. If new truck handling and performance were that important to me, I'd buy a new truck. My truck still retains it's antique truck character. Part of that is it's handling -- which requires old school technique to drive it safely and effectively. All part of the attraction for me and many others. I think the OP had a preconceived notion of what he wanted to do which mainly involves the styling of an old truck but not the engineering. Thus, it's time to move this to the High Performance section. We tried the easy way. He's bound and determined to do it the hard way.

Maybe the hot rod guys can help him.

John