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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 162
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
O Offline
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 162
I have a 1960 C-10 Fleetside. I need help figuring out how to wire the turn signal/stop lights. The tail lights are fairly simple. Those are working properly. I have three wires leaving the cab. Black is tail lights. Simple. Red and green I think are the stop lights and turn signals. With the passenger side turn signal on, I have power in the green wire at the cab. Same for driver's side with the red wire. When the brakes are applied I have power in both wires and both stop lights function. It gets weird after that. When the drivers side turn signal is actuated, both sides blink. When the passenger side signal is actuated I get nothing. Long story short. I need help with a simple diagram how the turn/stop wires are connected. I will be cleaning the rust/paint etc. from where the light housing connect to the bed and replacing all wires. I've replaced the sockets for the tail lights. The bulbs are new also.

Thanks in advance.

Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 1,991
7
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 1,991
The first priority is a good ground, second is a good ground, third is a good---well you get it. How many wires are coming out of the turn signal switch?, is it stock?


1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
B Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
If you are talking the rear only, here is how it works. I am not sure about your colors. Lots of things change over the years.

1. Three wires go to rear. Rear bulbs are dual contact/dual filament. One contact for tail light filament, one contact for stop/turn filament. Each side.
2. Tail lights are wired from the headlight switch. Nothing to do with turn signal switch. One wire goes back from H/L switch and splits to each tail light filament contact and license light. That's 1 of 3.
3. One wire goes back from turn signal to left turn/stop filament contact. That's 2 of 3.
4. One wire goes back from turn signal to right turn/stop filament contact. That's 3 of 3.
5.The turn signal switch is "router". It receives a flash signal from the flasher. It receives a stop signal from brake switch. If you are in straight ahead mode and apply brakes, brake lights come on. When you move the lever to make a right turn, the T/S switch shuts off the brake signal to right and allows only a flash signal to right. Allows brake signal to left.

Same idea with left turn.

So wire it up like that and report. I don't know EXACTLY where you are testing with words like "at the cab".

It seems your truck's turn signal switch colors may be:

-light blue = to left front turn signal & dash indicator
-yellow = feed from the flasher on the fuse box
-dark blue = to right front turn signal & dash indicator
-pink = to left rear turn signal & brake contact
-violet = to right rear turn signal & brake contact
-white) = feed from brake light switch


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Joined: May 2010
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 162
Yes it is. I cleaned all rust and paint from the surfaces where the housing attaches. I think I have more problems than that though. I'm sure that will go along way to narrowing down the variable. Thanks for the response.

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Posts: 162
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Bartamos,

The wire colors are as you described. I think I found the problem, at least part of it. When testing the pink and violet wires coming from the turn signal switch, my tester light blinks regardless of turn signal lever position. Left or right. Could it be the switch has gone bad? Everything was working fine for a while. The front signals are working.
I hate to add one more issue, but when I press the brake pedal, my front signals no longer blink. They illuminate, but don't blink and are dim. Brake lights still work but no signal in rear on either side.
I have been thinking about installing a replacement harness for the whole truck but can't decide which one. I have read many different opinions on these products. I know I would buy one made for this truck. Not a universal. Have you installed one before?

When I said "at the cab' I meant where they exit the cab.

Thanks,
Mark

Last edited by ole green; 03/06/2022 8:51 PM.
Joined: May 2005
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B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
B Offline
Joined: May 2005
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Hard to say. Do you have 6 or 7 wires coming out of turn switch? What other wires have power during that test besides pink and violet. Do your colors match my list?


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Joined: May 2010
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O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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I have 6. I think I'll get a new switch and start there.

Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,718
H
Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters
Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters
H Offline
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,718
I suspect your wiring is fine evidenced by you getting current to all spots. What happens when you wire a temporary ground at each tail light housing and parking light housing?


~ HB
1966 Chevrolet K-10 | Ghost: formerly Flappy Fenders | In the Stovebolt Gallery
1962 Chevrolet C10
1962 Suburban
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'Bolter
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Hambone,
I haven't done that. Is that to make sure I have a good ground? I did grind all the paint and rust from the tail light housings to shiny metal and it appears I have a good ground on both sides. The brake lights, the turn signals, although both sides blink, and the tail lights were bright and seemed normal. It seems the problem is the pink (left rear) and violet (right rear) wires coming from the turn signal switch both are sending current to my rear blinkers, no matter which way the turn signal lever is positioned. (left or right) I am getting a lot of inconsistency. Just know I was checking everything to make sure my post was accurate and my brake lights and turn signals quit working. I have headlight and tail lights. My fuses appear fine.

Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,718
H
Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters
Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters
H Offline
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,718
Yes, ground is easiest and first to rule out. Chasing bad grounds has lead to much lost time and money. Rule that out first.


~ HB
1966 Chevrolet K-10 | Ghost: formerly Flappy Fenders | In the Stovebolt Gallery
1962 Chevrolet C10
1962 Suburban
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 162
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
O Offline
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 162
Thanks.

Joined: May 2010
Posts: 162
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: May 2010
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Yes they are and the front blinkers and indicators work.

Joined: May 2010
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O
'Bolter
'Bolter
O Offline
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 162
Turns out my turn signal switch was bad. I also found the left turn signal indicator bulb wiring loosè and wasn't getting a good ground. This apparently was preventing the left turn signal from working right. Thanks for the help. Thanks bartamos for your help with wire colors and how things were supposed to work.


Moderated by  Hambone, Woogeroo 

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