The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Oil galley tube

I watched a couple of videos on YouTube last night where the owners of stovebolts discovered that the short tube that transmits oil from the lower block to the head was either completely blocked starving the rocker arms of any oil or was partially blocked and only allowed a dribbling of oil to get to the rocker assembly. While I’ve got my newly acquired 235 on an engine stand I’d like to proactively replace that tube. I’ve looked on Inline Tube’s website and they don’t sell one, and neither does Chevies of the 40’s. Anyone know where I can buy one? Thanks

Isn't that tube only used on spray-oiler Babbit connecting rod engines? Some of the early 235's had a tube from the rear camshaft bearing oil passage under the pushrod cover to the oil connector of the rocker arm shafts. That tube can be replaced with a piece of 3/16" steel or copper/nickel brake line, since it doesn't come into contact with the coolant. The spray oilers need to use copper tubing to avoid rust-out. Most of the resto-ripoff suppliers have a kit with tubing and fittings to replace the spray oiler oil tube.
Jerry

If its the later style steel tubing under the pushrod cover, I have never seen a replacement. I have used standard brake line when I needed a new line. You may have to change the longer fitting that typically comes with the generic fitings as the longer fitting generally does not clear the bump out on the side cover. Notwithstanding, clean the original with pipe cleaners and mineral spirits. Little elbow grease adn it will be all clear and clean ready for another bunch of miles. Remember to clean out the fittings and passages. Becareful, some of those fittings are specific to the year of the motor. For example, if you look at the brass fitting are the rear cam bearing boss on a 57 motor, you will note it has a restrictor built into the fitting. Later motors do not have this type fitting. So keep track and clean clean clean and off you go!

Jerry and Mike, thank you both for your feedback and advice. Jerry, you seem to think the tube I’m referring to is found only on early babbit-bearing style motors. My 235 is a 1955 model and is therefore full pressure. I haven’t taken off the side cover yet to actually see the tube I saw in the videos. Are you saying there shouldn’t be one on my motor? It would be great if I don’t have one to worry with.

Your motor has the steel tube behind the push rod cover. Disconnect the battery and remove any rings on your fingers. The starter solonoid and wiring are really close to a couple of the lower bolts. Remove the cover. As soon as you remove rthe cover, you will see the line. Its not that long, 8-12 inchres or so. Remove the line, remove the fittings and soak and clean all of it. Clean out the line. Reinstall the line and fittings. New gasket on the side cover (bump out at the top - believe it or not, you can physically get the cover bolted on backwards. It will leak but it will fit. So just make sure the bump faces out and is positioned at the top and you are good to go.)

Remove valve cover. Remove breather cap and soak in mineral spirits and flush out as best you can. Fire motor up without valve cover on and make sure oil is dribbling, not spitting or gushing, dribbling out of the dribble hole on the top of each rocker. If it is, you are golden! New valve cover gasket and go for a ride.

Thanks Mike!! Sounds like a good plan.

The early full pressure engines have the short line that only goes from the back of the pushrod chamber to the oil connector. The spray-oilers have a line that runs all the way through from the driver's side at the oil distributor, through the water jacket. Usually, cleaning the line under the pushrod cover doesn't do much good. The restriction is in the block passage around the rear cam bearing. I usually use a high pressure air hose to blow the crud out of the block passages while I've got the oil line removed.
Jerry

Thanks Jerry!

Update……. I removed the side cover today and indeed there was an oil line behind it. I removed it and found it to be completely blocked by thick oily crud at both ends. I also removed the volume-reducing fitting for cleaning and discovered it too was clogged. I boiled the line in hot water and then immediately pushed .065 monofilament line through the length of the tube multiple times and finally cleared the blockage. I used compressed air to blow out the residue in the tube. A toothpick cleared the blockage in the fitting. The only thing left to do is to do the same thing on the block passages using the air compressor. I’m really concerned that the rocker arm assembly was starved of adequate oil for years and wonder what damage was caused. I know these old motors are work horses that die hard, but oil is the lifeblood of any engine. I’ve got my fingers crossed that once it’s buttoned up and started that it will run well.

Excellent. Make sure the boss on the rear cam is clear also. Then the trick will be making sure the block and head is clear from the point the steel line enters at the top. You may have to pull the rocker assembly to get it clear.

Mike, where is the boss you mentioned? Not familiar with that part of the motor. I already know I’ll be removing the rocker arm assembly so I can replace a bent pushrod I discovered today, so I’ll be sure to throughly clean it.

Pull the rocker arm assembly and dismantle it, keeping all the rockers in the proper order- - - -there are 4 different shapes and they must be reassembled in the right order. Check the undersides of the rocker shafts for wear- - - -for some reason, the shafts wear a lot quicker than the rocker arms when they're starved for oil. A seller on Ebay usually has new rocker shafts for a reasonable price.
Jerry