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Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 5
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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I have a 1958 Chevy Apache with a 235. Before I started my restoration I installed a Pertronic ignition and coil and it ran fine. I am now hooking everything back up and I have a few questions that hopefully someone can answer. The Pertronix ignition only requires a positive wire from the ignition switch when switched on (The switch is the two-position style and its either on or off). I used the violet colored wire for this purpose and it has current when the switch is on and no current with the switch turned off - is this okay? In other words, is it okay for the coil to always have voltage going to it when switch on?

Second question - with this setup, do I still need the vaccum advance line connected that runs from the base of the distributor to the lower vaccum port on the base of the Rochester B Carburetor? Can I just cap off the lower port on the carb?

Third, I am now running electric wipers versus the vacuum style. Do I need vaccum anyplace else that you can think of? I dont think so, but just making sure.

Thanks!


Anything old
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
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Comment on your first question. Take the Pertronix off and throw it as far as you can, then put the stock system back on. There are others on here that will disagree but my comment is based on personal experience with Pertronix and lots of research. Good luck.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)

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'Bolter
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Ive had a Pertronix ignition on my '61 Vette (350 SBC) for 18 years without any problems. I guess I'm one of the lucky ones!


Anything old
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Don't throw it away- - - - -use it as a sinker the next time you go fishing! The "big cap" General Motors HEI system used on late model 250 and 292 engines is reliable, and can be adapted to a stovebolt engine very easily. DO NOT fall for the offshore knockoffs of the HEI that are available cheap on Ebay, however.
Jerry


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'Bolter
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I really don’t understand what’s wrong with just leaving these engines setup with points.


1951 3100
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Sir Searchalot
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There are good and bad stories about Pertronix. I believe the bad are mostly older versions and user error. Generally speaking "pointless ignition" will last a whole lot longer.

1. The pertronix ignition instructions probably say leave vacuum advance hooked up.
2. The motor will not run unless the coil has voltage. That's what the ignition switch does. So you are OK as long as you don't leave the switch on overnight by accident.
3. No other vacuum necessary except advance. If you see other vacuum lines, report.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
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'Bolter
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Thanks for answering my questions!


Anything old
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by JW51
I really don’t understand what’s wrong with just leaving these engines setup with points.


Nothing is wrong with that. My '56 Cadillac has been a daily driver for 20 years and over 100,000 miles and still has points. If you like the engine to start with the first touch of the key, you can only achieve that with breaker point ignition.

Last edited by Otto Skorzeny; 02/21/2022 7:33 PM.

1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
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#1. Yes
#2. Yes
#3. No other vacuum needed.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)

Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 5
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Thanks!


Anything old
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B
Curmudgeon
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Revisiting #1. Cut-n-paste from the website (attached).
Attachments
Pertronix.jpg (26.99 KB, 121 downloads)


"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
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'Bolter
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JW51 Now I am an HEI fan in that I think it's best to use any updates you can. HEI is just an eloctronic way to advance above the wear eroded point system,where once you get it all adjusted it is busy wearing out of the specs you worked to get in place. Same with alternators,same with fuel systems ! It's why I burn propane in my AD trucks !!

Joined: Dec 2018
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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JW51 Nothing wrong with original ignition,it's just that dependable condensers are hard to find...however we have a member that will help with that. Next as the point system wears it changes the timing,plus wear in the distributor bothers it. IMHO going to HEI is much better in that it is more accurate and powerful plus any parts store can help you with repairs. As was said stay away from offshore new HEI's ,use domestic (junkyard) donor distributor to make your own. You can do it with tools you have at home now !!


Moderated by  Jon G, Rusty Rod 

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