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Joined: Apr 2012
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What is the proper way to install the Rocker arms and Push Rods on a 216 then adjust valves cold and hot?


Last edited by Waynesel; 01/12/2013 3:05 PM.

Wayne Selway
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http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/index.htm
thats a link to the online manual and i do believe that the valve are supposed to be set hot. You should be able to find everything in the manual

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You wouldn't happen to know what position the #1 piston should be in would you?


Wayne Selway
Joined: Sep 2001
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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The location of the #1 cylinder does not really matter for installing the rocker arm assembly.

You will want the #1 cylinder at TDC in order to set the valve lash. First, set them cold. Then, warm up the engine as described in the procedure. Then, check the settings hot.

Here is a valve lash adjustment procedure in the Stovebolt.com Tech Tips.

Here is another write-up for adjusting valve lash.

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When I set the the rocker arm assembly on the head even with all of the adjusting nuts backed all the out the rocker arm posts do not set all of the way down on the head I would need to force them down. Not sure why this happens.


Wayne Selway
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Has the head you are using been milled, And if so, how much?



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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Many of the valves will be pushed open/down as you tighten down the rocker arm posts's bolts. Is that what you are referring to?

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Yes just one or two, I believe it depends on which cylinder is TDC. It was milled but I didn't ask how much.


Wayne Selway
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When you tighten the bolts for the rocker arm shaft turn each bolt a few turns and move to the next one. Take your time.

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F
'Bolter
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How much do I torque the bolts that hold the rocker arm assembly to the head? I took the assembly off for cleaning.

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'Bolter
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It is a 1937 216engine.

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Normal torque for a 3/8-16 grade 5 bolt is usually 35 ft/lbs. Due to the position of the camshaft lobes it's not uncommon for a few valves to be pushed open a little as the rocker stands are tightened. Be sure all the pushrods are seated in the proper relationship on both ends.
You can also snug the bolts a little and turn the engine to a different position to minimize the amount of strain on the rocker shafts as you tighten them down.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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'Bolter
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I have a reprint of the 1937 shop manual but couldn't find the torque specs for the rocker arm bolts.

Last Dec. after following the procedures for bringing an engine back to life, I started it and ran it for about 10 seconds, it sounded ok. It had not been run since being driven into a barn in 2010 after many years of farm use.

Since Dec. I have pulled the oil pan and cleaned out an inch and a half of semi hardened sludge from the sump, cleaned out the plumbing in the bottom of the pan with parts cleaner, then ran hot water through the plumbing, everything seemed to be spraying at the same angle, then I blew air through it to get all the water out. Cleaned the oil pump and the screen and put the pan back on.
Now I'm cleaning the rocker assembly and the top of the head, everything is coated with a layer of crud the consistency of thick gritty grease. I discovered that one pushrod, the one on the far end on cyl 6 pulls right out, the rest are held in place by their retainers. Next step is to pull the side cover and clean everything and see what is going on with that pushrod. In hindsight I think I should have started the cleaning at the top end and worked my way down.

It has been a long time since I've worked on an engine. Besides keeping track of each part and where it goes for reassembly are there any pointers I should be aware of? I have confidence I can do this with Stovebolters looking over my shoulder.

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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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If you choose to remove the valve lifters from their bores for cleaning, be sure to replace them in the same holes they came from. Each lifter and the camshaft lobe it runs against have a unique wear pattern that does not need to be disturbed.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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'Bolter
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The alternative is to remove all of the adjusters from the rocker arms. Now the stands can be bolted down without resistance, it just takes longer to re-install the adjusters.

If you have removed the rockers from the shafts, pay particular attention to the assembly order. The rockers are very different, 4 sets of 3 identical rockers as follows:
3 each 8° left-handed offset intake rockers
3 each 8° right-handed offset intake rockers
3 each 1° left-handed (almost straight) exhaust rockers
3 each 1° right-handed (almost straight) exhaust rockers


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