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| | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 64 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 64 | I am replacing the bushings on the brake and clutch arms.
With the arms removed it really showed where the arms have been hitting on the cab seam where the floor meets the firewall. Is that what they were supposed to come up against to stop? Were the brake master cylinder rod and the clutch rod supposed to be adjusted somehow to stop before the pedal arms hit the cab? I haven't found in the assembly manual how the stop position was supposed to be yet.
I am thinking about making a thin hard rubber stop for them to hit.
What am I missing? | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,126 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,126 | There should be a rubber bumper on the clutch arms, but the brake pedal adjustment should keep it from bumping into the floor. linkYou should also check to see that the front of your cab mounts are in good shape. If it's sagged, that would cause the pedal arm to floor distance to be smaller than it's supposed to be.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 64 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 64 | That makes sense. Didn't know about that bumper, obviously hadn't been on there for decades. The clutch arm wore a nice groove in the lip of that seam. My cab mounts are good, can see where the cab being lower would cause some of that.
My brake arm wasn't near as bad, so that needs to be addressed on the pedal to master cylinder adjustment.
Thank you klhansen for the information. | | |
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