The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Proper engine pull method?

When removing a 235 to use as an engine transplant, where are the most appropriate places to bolt the lift chains? I don’t want to damage anything during the pull, especially the rocker arm assembly. Thanks

I built a steel strap mount that bolts to the coil bolts on one side and to manifold bolts on the other. If manifold is on; I loop the chain around both ends of the manifold.

It could be viewed as a little too dangerous by some people, but I just used ratchet cargo straps to cradle the engine. One goes under the oil pan in the front (inside the generator), and the other goes between the oil pan and bell housing in the rear. Then adjust the straps to get the engine hanging relatively level. I thought I took a picture when I did it, but must not have.

One can also make a bracket to use the two valve cover bolts.

Ed

Or the engine leveler I built out of a broken trailer tongue jack that bolts to the rocker assembly. Works like a charm.

When I pulled my engine & trans off the chassis, I just used a chain hooked to the generator adjuster bracket and bolted to the opposite corner stomp starter bolt. I needed a ratchet strap hooked to the clutch linkage to bring that side up. Not optimal and I didn't want to depend on that mickey mouse arrangement to reinstall the engine.

Swami and Ed, those are both really nice homemade devices. Wish I had the facilities to make something like them but I don’t. I’ll have to simply attach chains somewhere. The manifolds will still be attached when the motor comes out.

Kevin, that’s a nice piece you built but I can’t fab something like that. Nice design though.

The shop manual shows an engine lift that was available for mechanics at the time. Top left in pic. Would be nice to find one.

Here are some engine levelers/lifts'Maybe someone will give a report on one they have recently purchased.

I use a similar leveler/lift that I bought 40-50 years ago.

It works like a charm on stovebolt engines and old GMC straight six engines.

I have handled dozens of engines with a home-brewed device that hooks under the rocker arm shafts just outboard of a couple of rocker shaft stands. Loosen the rocker adjusters, slide the rockers sideways against the springs, and lift directly on the shafts. No pain, no strain, no damage!

It's basically a clone of the factory fixture pictured above, which could also use the rocker shafts as a lift point. Those long eye bolts are still available, which were threaded in in place of a couple of head bolts but be sure to use ones made of forged steel, not cast or galvanized ones.
Jerry

Hy tclederman, Happy Birthday, I tried to send you a private message, but apparently you are over the limit.

Thanks, 3B

Spotbiltxo 55 years ago we just put the chainhoist hooks on the rocker shaft and pulled it right out. Our boss was a 6 cylinder gooroo never was mentioned,never saw it hurt anything. He worked on em in 37 !!

If you are nervous about lifting the engine with the rocker shafts, take 'em off!

That leaves several 3/8-16 bolt holes to bolt some angle iron onto, and attach the chain to the angle iron!

Jerry

Thanks everyone. I never knew the rocker arm assembly was so stout!?! Heck, why fret over pulling a 630 lb. motor when you can just latch onto the assembly and yank it out without any damage?? Who knew?!?

I once lifted the whole front of a Model A off the ground with a single 3/8" bolt that I forgot to disconnect when pulling an engine. It takes a LOT to bend or break one of those.

A 1/4 x 28 aircraft bolt can lift a DC-3 wing all by itself!

Ed

spotbiltxo We just put chain hooks on the rocker shaft,never hurt one that way.