I have a 1950 chev 3100 with a 1956 chev truck differential. I am trying to connect a 1950 rear e brake cable to the rear plate of the 56 . As you can see where the parking brake goes on the back side of the plate it is not flat but is rounded. How do I connect the ebrake housing plate it looks like it would take two bolts. See picture below.I added a picture of Deve Krehbiel (the shiny one) and he somehow did it. The third picture shows how far out the plate protrudes which makes installing the 56 chev ebrake cable with the two bolt plate a challenge
Last edited by Rick Brown; 12/29/20219:43 PM. Reason: New picture
You need different cables. The one that goes on your '56 is round and snaps into the hole in the backing plate with springy fingers to hold it in place.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I measured the 1950 rear parking brake cable and it is about 44.5 inches long.A 1956 parking brake cable is 62 inches long . Seems to be a big difference if I use the 56 cable
Rock auto does not show a cable for a 1950 ,but shows one for a 1951 . It. Could be that in 1950 your truck may have had huck brakes.Here is a picture of the 51 cable and a cable for a 1956 .Anyway looks like you will have to adapt a way to make it work safely .Maybe if the backing plates are the same except for the parking brake area you could switch backing plates from a 51 rear axle.
Kevin my cable looks exactly like the 51. I think it is a great idea to use a 51 back plate. Now I will have to track one down. I already have all the brake hardware for a 56 so I hope it all will work on the 51 back plate
Check out the differences on the parts I looked on rock auto and the brake drums and shoes look to be the same but wheel cylinders appear to be different .you will have to more than likely see them side buy side to see if they are compatible.
The longer cable might work, but you'd have to route it in a curve or loop. I think it would be very difficult to shorten the cable with the push-in mount, although it could be done.
Using a '51 backing plate is a good idea. Bendix brakes were used all the way up into the 60's or maybe even '70's. Possibly with just some minor differences. Like Kevinski said, you'd probably have to see them side-by-side to see if they'd work. Backing plates were riveted on to the rear axle housing in '51, so you may have some work getting a pair. There are lots of torque tube rear axles around from conversions like yours, so shouldn't be difficult to find.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
What if I cut out the rounded part of the current back plate and welding in a flat piece then use the 50 cable and drill in holes to match the original 50 cable holes. That sounds easier than switching plates?
Might be worth looking to see if someone can make a custom cable or use something like this .I would not want to be cutting the backing plate as it may be a no no when it comes to safety inspection.
Last edited by KEVINSKI; 12/20/20212:26 AM. Reason: More imfo
Deve's picture sure looks like a '51 backing plate. I had to save the picture and zoom in to really see that it's flat in that area. You MIGHT be able to cut out the hump, but as Kevinski said, that might cause issues, both with operation and safety, as it would be hard to get the holes in the right place. I think it would be easier to put '51 backing plates on it.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I just discard ALL of the old AD e-brake stuff except for the rod that runs from the foot pedal to the frame mounted cross shaft. That rod is threaded, an equalizer added, and the cable is run from one backing plate to the other and through the equalizer---just like the factories have done for the last 65 years. Pic of a 52 with a non caveman e-brake installed:
When people say 1956 chev, I take it to mean Chevrolet "car" and not truck. So it is a 56 car rear axle in a 50 truck. Cool!
If you are particular and appearance matters: Measure the distance from the plate to the cable holder on the frame. Take pictures and make a sketch of what you want. Find a company that will make what you need, for example https://bruinbrakecables.com.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
55 first or second series ,I will look in my a axle I got to see if the wheel cylinder area area is the same ,it may just be different cylinders in the way they hook up with a block or straight in or maybe they have a different angle.
Yes I have all 1956 chev truck rear brake parts and the 1956 chev truck rear differential with the backing plate.
I added another picture on original thread showing how protruded the backing plate is and I think I could cut a sliver out of in and hammer it in flush, a little weld and drill new holes in
I added another picture on original thread showing how protruded the backing plate is and I think I could cut a sliver out of in and hammer it in flush, a little weld and drill new holes in
Yes, you could certainly do that. You'd need to know how far back of center the cable attaching holes are in the '51 backing plates to get the cable in the right place. The hole for the cable is also irregularly shaped (kind of triangular, IIRC.) I can't measure for you as my chassis is covered in snow (and getting deeper currently.) Here's the best picture I have of that area.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
One more question are there nuts on the other side of the two cable bolts or is it a threaded hole?
It's a bolt and nut connection.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I cut out the original cable hole and added a piece of sheet metal to front side to accept the two ebrake bolt nuts. I added the picture to the first post. I would say it seems to be sitting at about a two o,clock positon as opposed to a three o’clock but I think it will work
If anything, the cable should be angled up just slightly. The pics you sent me indicate it's angled down just a bit (attached). You don't want a kink or bend in the cable right there. You can fix that by filing the holes just a bit. The '51 parking brake cable mounts with a thick felt gasket between the bracket and backing plate. I'd suggest you get those to install.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.