The Stovebolt Site Forums Project Journals Archived Journals 1948 Chevy 3/4 ton - Poncho

Ok that explains it. You can try vinegar or powdered citrus acid from bulk store mixed with hot water .although don’t know if I would put it in past the seal as I am not sure if it effects the rubber

Flywheel marked for quick timing:

Wire-wheel and rust converter for the pump:

So here's why I have for flywheel bolts; far right off 216, rough, looks like they've been reused before. Middle off a 235, little mangled, but probably useable. Left, bolts with star washers off 261.

Thoughts?

The bolts with the 2-bolt keepers get buggered up because the bent up tabs on the keepers prevent the socket from seating fully on the bolt head. But any of them are probably fine to use.
Your keepers look about like mine did. But they at least had an intact corner to bend up to keep the bolt from backing out. But the locktite is the first line of defense against that happening.

I was thinking star washers and locktite. Better than original...

Whatever holds the flywheel in place. I'm not a fan of star washers. Modern flywheel bolts (as in my 7.3L diesel) use no lock washers, just a flat ring under all the bolts.

So, looking at installing the water pump, but need the generator bracket installed at the same time. The 261 came with the top bracket and the 216 the bottom:

I'm assuming with relocating the water pump, I will want to use the 216 bracket. Will the slight difference in the bottom mounts affect the belt size?

Might be a idea to put things on loosely to see how it lines up .

Good call, will mock it up and see.

For exhaust studs, I have new, do I double-nut them to install? Or is there a trick to getting studs in? I figure easier to do on the bench then on the motor...

Never seen one with studs ,the ones I have used are bolts .I would clean out the threads in the block. Here is what I have on mine picture from chev of the 40;s along with the metal wings to bolt them down

Studs for the exhaust pipe flange

Yes, double nutting is the way to install them. I might put the manifold on the engine first instead of trying to wrestle the manifold on the workbench. But either way would work.

Threaded it on with my fingers, willl double-nut to torque it. Do I use my red locktite here?

Locktite is probably not needed. Rust molecules will perform that function. I think the exhaust heat will destroy the locktite anyway.

Torque requirements for intake to exhaust?

Looks pretty decently aligned, think I'm ready to add a little more paint and assemble.

Looks to me like the generator needs to move back a bit. You can see the back edge of the crank pulley (red arrow). Unless the generator mount bolts are a sloppy fit and it's not aligned straight with the crankshaft axis.
Also looks like you should have repaired the radiator mount point as well (yellow arrow). There should be two distinct holes there. Looks like it has broken out over the years.

Not called out in the service manual. Go by the size of the fasteners (probably in the 12-15 ft-lb range).

Bolts were all loose, but I will keep an eye on that when I do final assembly. I'm waiting on a rad support as mine was broken. I will fix the cross-member when I have the proper holes to align.

For these gaskets, they don't line up all that great, should I be trying them back, out of the port? If so, what would be best to do this? Steel reinforced gaskets...

For the bolt holes in the crossmember, the FAM has dimensions for them. I needed to fix mine as well, and used those figures to get them patched up correctly.

I read someone liked to use rtv copper anti-sieze on the intake and exhaust gaskets. Good idea?

A petcock is a whole lot easier to use than unscrewing a plug every time.

Ed

On, ready to torque.

One port does not fully seat, take it off and try again?

Also, tips for torquing the inside port bolts? Can't get my tool in there...

Gaskets on the bottom not compressed, think I'm having issues getting it to seat flat...

You may have to take the manifolds and get them resurfaced so they're flat across the ports. Check with a straightedge (carpenter's square, etc.) Do you have the intake to exhaust bolts torqued? If so, you should loosen them and try again. They should be tightened after the manifold to head bolts are snugged up.

Mr. Carter had the 10-3/4" clutch - $75. Getting pressure plate rebuilt locally. Should get me under the $500 to rebuild them both...

👍 how did you make out with the manifold did you try loosening the bolts that hold the two together as the other Kevin suggested.

I had the guide rings in the manifold, took it off and put them in the block instead and it worked. Still have to figure out how to torque the inside bolts since my torque wrench won't fit in there.

If you mean the manifold to block bolts, you can use an extension on a torque wrench.

Good that you got the manifolds seated correctly.

Torque wrench work with a swivel socket?

As long as the angle isn't too far off straight, a swivel socket will work. I just checked my manifolds and I see that the intake is in the way of a straight extension. You could use a box wrench and judge the torque by comparing with the other bolts. Or use a spring scale on the end of the wrench. The spec for the center clamp bolts is 15-20 ft-lbs, so 15-20 lb of force on a foot long box wrench would be correct. Or 30-40 lb on a 6-inch long wrench.

I'd like to get these oil lines installed while it's convenient. What's the white that the shop used on the 'T' in back? Teflon tape?

Teflon tape works. Just be careful not to wrap it past the inner end of the male threads. Or you can use a good pipe dope rated for gas and oil.

I'd like to use the linkage that came with the 261. What holds this onto the throttle linkage? The hole is threaded for the rod.

I found this on the net maybe the clip that is in the picture . Does not look like mine on my 54 ,maybe a linkage from what the engine was out of .

Yup, looks right. Wonder where I can get just the clip...

Dorman has a assortment Napa may have them or Canadian tire the Dorman number is in the picture .Or you can order on Amazon if your not in a rush. Take your part to see if it fits would be ideal if you can get it locally.

Look at that, even available at my local CT. Thanks!

KEVINSKI, You're busted!!
That link you posted says "This does not fit your Ford F100"

Lately when I go to a Amazon it does not give you any choice other than about six vehicle manufactures.does not have gm or Chevy in there drop down window .