The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Can't find the block casting #

I'm trying to get some parts for my engine and, therefore, trying to determine the year. I've looked in the usual place, in front of the distributor, for the casting number but there is nothing there. The serial number, in back of the distributor, begins with LDA so according to Inliners.org it's a '53. (the rest of the s/n is 575363). The head casting # is 3701883 which, according to 1954 Advanced-Design, is a '53 truck head. This should mean that the block casting number should be 3701946 or 3701887, but I can't find either of those numbers anywhere on the block. Any ideas?

Joe

My engine (which was installed in '53 as a short block) had the last few digits of the casting number ground flat and restamped. Used to be 3835_4_ (probably 3835946 - built in '53), but the last 3 digits were stamped 794 which is a '42-'53 date range. It's located on the right front just above the pan mounting flange. But mine has no serial number behind the distributor, or evidence there ever was one. Must have been a GM replacement engine.

Is there evidence that your casting number was removed in that location?

My 3701481 is shown in the lower right corner as shown in the picture. I've thought that it is a 1953 235 from a car with Powerglide.

Wally, the 3701481 block was used in '53 in PG cars, but also used in '54 more widely. The stamped engine number on the pad just aft of the distributor (if the factory number is still there) will decode original service (letter prefix in '53, or letter-number suffix in '54).

Joe, there's something wrong with the numbers in your post - double check for typos? Casting 3701887 is a head casting, not a block casting number. I happen to have one on a '53 235 that's in my shop at the moment. I don't see '883 as a valid head casting number in my info. Also, the two block casting numbers to look for are 3701946 (as you posted) but the second is 3701483. Those are both low prssure, spray/splash oiling blocks. The block casting number will be low on the block, forward of the distributor.

Hope that helps.

Doug

Try looking in front of the starter, not the distributor.

Hi Doug,

Mia Culpa, Mia Culpa, Mia Maxima Culpa. Typo on my part the head casting # is 3701887. I still can't seem to locate the block number. I pulled the starter off today. I was trying to start it yesterday and at some point the starter just quit working. I took the pedal switch off while it was still on the motor and touched the battery positive directly to it and still nothing. Once I got it off and bench tested it, it spun right up. Point is I looked in that area of the block and still no casting number. There were the conveyor number and E 5 3 as the date code. I cleaned up in front of the distributor and still can't see any casting numbers. I'm going to see if I can take some carb cleaner to the block and see what I can see tomorrow.

Joe

Wally's pic above shows where the block casting number would be. In front of the fuel pump and just above where the oil pan bolts on.

Block casting number will be very low just above the oil pan on the right side in front of the fuel pump inside the recessed area that's probably filled with gunk. Wally's picture show's it perfectly!

EDIT - LOL, Kevin beat me to it!

Mike B

Also, double check the starter area as Gord suggested. My 57 261 cast number is there and it is very small. It doesn’t take much dirt to cover it up. The starter hides well. Clean up that area, you might find it yet.

Thanks everyone. There it was tucked right where Wally indicated. It's 3701946, so it's the '53 truck engine.

Now I just have to wait for the water pump, thermostat and housing and gaskets to show up. I didn't know they were not things I could just run to my local part place and pick up. I'm not sure why the starter wouldn't spin when it was in the engine. Maybe a dead spot on the armature? There's a local shop that will rebuild it for about $100 so I'm thinking about taking it in on Monday.

Next item to locate is a T-5. I'm beginning to remember how to judge the shift points on the non syncro tranny, but it's getting tiresome, and noisy, lol. It looks like the ones from S-10s are a better fit with the position of the shift lever closer to where it is now. I've been looking at some of the conversion posts and it looks like there's an issue with the input shaft length that has to be dealt with but other than that it seems to be a relatively simple fit.

Thanks again everyone,
Joe

What rear are you going use when you swap in the T-5? That might make a difference in which T-5 you pick.

Mike B

It’s got a bel a air rear end but I’m not sure what the ratio is.

Is it an open or closed torque tube driveshaft? The T-5 won't bolt up to a torque tube...and rear ratio would be a factor in picking the right transmission.

Mike B

Hey Mike,

It's an open driveshaft. I'm going to jack it up this weekend and see what the ratio is.

So the rears already been swapped with something newer...you may want to ID what you have so you can buy parts as needed for it.

Mike B