I’m getting ready to install the glass into the vent window frame and have a question on the setting tape that I bought from Classic Parts. The tape has two different sides. One has a fabric and the other is just rubber so my question is what side goes against the glass.
My thought is the fabric goes against the frame allowing it to slip in more easily but I would like to know the correct way.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Phil, I'm not sure it matters but I put the side against your thumb to the FRAME side. It was difficult to install even with the motor oil. Used a mallet to do the final seating. It was such a difficult process for me that I put more work/research into the tape I used for the door windows ( frame inside width minus window thickness divided by 2) and ordered the correct with tape from a vintage auto restoration supplier. Things went much smoother on the door windows.
I went and looked and I installed it the opposite of what I stated. Fabric to the frame.
Last edited by Dusty53; 12/03/20213:10 PM. Reason: corrected post information, my bad
Ron - - Dusty53 1954 Chevy 3604 In the Gallery Forum "You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell." "They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel."
I was taught to put the fabric side out, rubber goes against the glass. We didn't use oil on the that style, just on the rubber tape.never asked why. It wasn't wise for the 18 year old new guy to question the why's of the oldtimers teaching me, just do it their way! We would also notch the corner to let it curve around without bunching too much. Start the glass/ tape into frame as far as possible with hand pressure, if necessary you can tap the frame with a plastic or rubber hammer while keeping pressure inwards on the glass with your hand if its in the door or against a padded bench surface to seat it. I think its harder and takes longer to explain than to do it! Just don't try to drive the glass into the frame with a 16 oz. claw hammer like one of my helpers tried!
I was taught to put the fabric side out, rubber goes against the glass.
That's what the Filling Station video I watched the other day said to do. Stickiest side toward glass.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
The plot thickens! After reading Dusty53 post, I measured the ID of the vent window frame, the glass and the thickness of the setting tape, I came to the conclusion that the setting tape From Classic Parts is way too thick. The tape from measures .068” (a bit over 1/16”) and the description on their site says 3/64” (.046”). The frame ID (averaged out) is .320”. The glass is .232” which leaves .088” of room for the setting tape. .068” x 2 =.132”. Not going to fit!
I called Classic Parts and they pulled the part from the bin. It measured the same as the one I have. They do not have the 3/64” tape I need. They noted that it was miss labeled and gave me a credit.
I found 3/64” setting tape on eBay, which I ordered, so that will be another delay of at least a week.
Frustration level going up!
Last edited by Phak1; 12/04/20213:18 AM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
This thread illustrates better than I can describe why I use black RTV for setting glass on vent and door glass. Once it sets up, just clean up the excess with a razor blade.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
This thread illustrates better than I can describe why I use black RTV for setting glass on vent and door glass. Once it sets up, just clean up the excess with a razor blade.
Carl How do you keep the glass away from the bottom and sides of the channels? Not saying RTV wouldn't' work, but how best to do it to get the glass in the right spot is the question.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I briefly thought about doing that, but came up with the same question!
Last edited by Phak1; 12/08/20212:05 AM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
If you decide to use RTV be sure to use automotive RTV. which does have acetic acid (smells like vinegar). The regular type will cause rust. To center the glass you can use the cardboard that is on single edge razor blades or any thin cardboard you might have. Just fold two or thee narrow pieces it to the thickness you need to keep the glass centered then slide it in with the glass, The lower door channel can be installed the same way. Just be sure you use something to center the glass, and Lord help the next guy!
I used the RTV on my 52 panel wing vents because of the problems with glass tape.
I really put the stuff on heavy, slide the glass in and then "seated it" against the rubber vertical piece. Had a little bit of a mess to clean up but it never leaked the 7 seven years I drove it...and in quite a bit of rain!
I had such a hard time setting my door glass the other side I ordered the glass with the metal track already installed. A little more expensive but worth it to me.
Here locally I use Pfaff's Auto Glass. Have been in business a long time. The older guys know what glass and sealant works best on antiques, street rods and on today's lightweight modern windshields that crack with rock chips. You can't beat experience.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
I'm probably biased, but I think buoymaker's preference is sound. If you have a local shop that has experienced glass guys they have the experience and know how to work on just about anything. You also don't have to buy more setting tape, sealant or other things than the job needs.
Sound advice and if the new 3/64” setting tape doesn’t work out, I will bring it to an auto glass shop.
Last edited by Phak1; 12/10/20212:14 AM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
That isn't like the setting tape I've used. What I have doesn't have any sticky side and isn't that difficult to use if you know how. However, here is a very old trick for applying anything with a self-adhesive backing that you need to move, align, etc...I learned this over 60 years ago. Use saliva if the adhesive piece is small. Just lick the sticky side liberally. Your spit will de-activate the adhesive until it dries. If you have a large piece, use dish soap diluted with water until you mimic the consistency of spit or close to it. Works the same way. Once it dries, it is stuck for good. Sort of like the old gelatin decals.
I'm not a fan of the RTV stuff, but that's just me. I've seen too much of that stuff go all funky after a few years in the Texas sun...
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Just received the new tape and it looks like it going to work perfect. I’ll see in a couple of days!
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
I briefly thought about doing that, but came up with the same question!
That setting tape is less than paper-thin. If you fill the gap with black RTV and firmly shove the glass down in until it doesn't want to go any further, it pretty much self-centers. Allow the excess which squeezes out to set completely for easy cleanup with a razor blade.
One could argue about whether it actually self-centers or not, but what is the worst case scenario? Off by 1/64" one side or the other? And then one needs to consider, so what if it is off-centered? The vent window is sealed by the rubber contacting the frame not the glass.
Last edited by 52Carl; 12/12/20213:42 AM.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
The vent window seals by the rubber at the rear, so if it's set too deep in the channel, it might not seal well against that. I've got 1/32 inch thick setting tape and plan on using it. It works out well for size with the channel width and glass thickness.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Mine tolerance was so close that once I got the glass in and closed it against the rubber seal at the rear, I pulled back on it just a tat to make sure it was sealed there and also to make sure no wind noise ect....each situation is probably a little different for each of us but the approach is pretty much the same. I'm happy to say i never had a leak.
I installed the vent window glass and it went really smooth. I think the key is to have the right sized tape. One video I watched on youtube, showed a guy that installs auto glass for a living, how he sizes up the frame and glass for the right sized tape. He placed it on the glass so that only the 1-1/2” width wrapped around the edge of the glass, so you are only pressing in the 1-1/2” width, then attempt to press it in. It should go in with minimum force but fit snug. If it does not press in, go down in size. If it falls in go up in size.
Prior to pressing it in, I installed the vent glass frame in the vent frame and slid the glass in the frame to see the relative position of where the glass needed to end up (rubber seals installed). Mine was hanging out the end of the frame about 1/6”. This way I had a real good idea of where the glass needed to be positioned.
I used black electrical tape to hold the seating tape in position on the glass and cut a vee in the one sharp corner (both sides), so it would bend around nicely. I used a little bit of dish detergent mixed with a splash of water to lubricate.
I was able to press it in mostly by hand and finished it up with a rubber faced mallet. I protected the new.y panted frames with painters tape. Prior to final fitment, I reinstalled the assembly in the frame to check my progress.I cut the excess off with a utility knife with a new blade. A little black silicone to fill a few voids and set it aside to dry. Almost ready to assemble the doors.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Sounds good, Phil. Can you post a link to that video?
I'm understanding that you wrapped a single length around the glass for the test fit. Correct?
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Phil, agreed - the right tape makes the difference . Sounds like you may have watched the same or nearly the same videos I watched. They helped me overcome my fear. I also used a rubber mallet to do the final seating. One other step I took was to measure how far the glass "stuck out " of the frame on the "old glass" so I could make sure I installed the new glass to the right depth. Glad it worked out well.
Ron - - Dusty53 1954 Chevy 3604 In the Gallery Forum "You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell." "They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel."
Sounds good, Phil. Can you post a link to that video?
I'm understanding that you wrapped a single length around the glass for the test fit. Correct?
I wrapped it across the edge so only the1-1/2” width went into the frame.
I looked for the last twenty minutes for that video and can’t seem to find it. I’ll look when I have more time.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
I looked for the last twenty minutes for that video and can’t seem to find it. I’ll look when I have more time.
No worries Phil, I've had things wander off into the land of the lost as well. I can hunt it down. You probably have more important thing to do (like reassembling your doors ) Thanks for the clarification on the test fit.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.