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#1432720 12/08/2021 12:43 AM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Was cleaning up my gunky bell housing ('51 3100 w/216) for painting and found what looks like a small screw broken off flush just under the right side below the stomp starter linkage.

There's a boss there, so I'm suspecting that should be where a clamp for the battery cable going to the starter screws on. Can anyone confirm that thinking?

Thanks
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IMG_4357.JPG (478.94 KB, 145 downloads)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
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Not sure what that is doesn’t appear there’s enough room for a cable clamp under the starter return spring.
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0DD16FA0-2300-46EC-BA2A-B45832B74225.jpeg (243.98 KB, 144 downloads)
0F0D9800-F8AD-49B4-BB64-88BF8C79CF83.jpeg (205.42 KB, 143 downloads)

Last edited by Phak1; 12/08/2021 1:23 AM.

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Thanks Phil

I can barely see what might be that same screw stub on your first pic, but you're right, it's just too tight in there for a cable. I was getting ready to drill and remove the stub, but won't bother now.

BTW, I see that your ground strap is routed over the return spring. My truck has a piece that forces that strap under the spring.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,100
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Here is a page in the FAM, showing the starter wiring and it doesn’t appear to have a clamp on the positive cable.
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C0370991-0CBC-431B-A70F-D253E706FB74.jpeg (185.01 KB, 138 downloads)

Last edited by Phak1; 12/08/2021 1:49 AM.

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joined: Feb 2019
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Originally Posted by klhansen
BTW, I see that your ground strap is routed over the return spring. My truck has a piece that forces that strap under the spring.

Can you post a picture of that piece. I routed it that way because I didn’t want the strap to rub on the spring. In the picture it appears to be sitting on the spring but there is a little clearance. I think gravity will eventually win!

Last edited by Phak1; 12/08/2021 1:50 AM.

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
I don't have it handy right now, but if you look at Sect 12, Sheet 8.00 in the FAM, it shows the "guide". It's a z-shaped piece of sheet metal with a bolt hole thru it.
I'm also seeing that same figure shows the battery to starter hot wire routed thru a clip on the other end of that ground strap. I remember taking that off of my truck. Which answers the question about that flush screw on the bell housing not being used for a battery cable clamp. Found the photo of when I removed it.
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IMG_3350.JPG (438.38 KB, 119 downloads)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,100
AD Addict & Tinkerer
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Thanks Kevin, it shouldn’t be to hard to fabricate.

Last edited by Phak1; 12/08/2021 8:16 PM.

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
If I run across the actual item, I'd be happy to post dimensions. I need to shovel my way out to my trailer (again!) where it likely is.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,955
K
'Bolter
'Bolter
K Offline
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,955
Here ya go pics are not great, 1 inch wide, hole looks 9/64 Mabel try 3/8 first see if bolt fits.looks 1/16 thick
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Last edited by KEVINSKI; 12/08/2021 8:09 PM. Reason: More imfo

kevinski
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Originally Posted by KEVINSKI
Here ya go pics are not great, 1 inch wide, hole looks 9/64 Mabel try 3/8 first see if bolt fits.looks 1/16 thick
Thanks Kevin! I’ll have to file this one away until I get to it! It’s something I didn’t even know I needed or knew was missing!

Last edited by Phak1; 12/08/2021 8:23 PM.

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
LOL, the other Kevin beat me to it.

But I dug mine out of the trailer yesterday, and just made a dimensional drawing/photo of the guide.

It looks like 16 gauge metal to me, but didn't measure that. The angle isn't quite 90 degrees and there's a bit of radius on the bends like Kevin's picture shows.

Anyway, here you go.
Attachments
IMG_4359.JPG (137.29 KB, 41 downloads)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,451
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,451
klhansen I recall the old timers (not us) telling about seeing bolts and stuff in the old castings done in the depression years. I think they saw it when they bored old blocks. I suppose other castings could have it too !!

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
fixite7, That spot was obviously for something, because of the boss in the casting. Maybe a holdover from a previous version of the pattern for a bell housing that didn't use a stomp starter. Not sure why they would have drilled and tapped and put that bolt stub in there, though as that would be extra work. I don't think it was cast in place like you're referring to.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.

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