The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks Heater core

1962 C-10, has the valve attached to the end of the core, so with valve removed there is only one pipe coming out of the heater core. Core leaks so I’m looking for a replacement. Everything I find has two pipes coming out of the core and no valve. Any leads on where to purchase the correct one for my truck. Thanks

Take it to a radiator shop the tanks on your core look good they may be able to fix or re core it using the tanks from the origional

On another blog I found this were they had to use a heater core then get the tank changed at a rad shop and the heater valve is rebuildable here is a pic of the blog with part numbers from 2012.

I have read that blog. Thanks
Apparently this particular core is made from unobtainium! There is a radiator shop about 30 miles north of me so I may try to have this one repaired. If not I’ll ask them about swapping the tank.

Martin, you are sure it is leaking at the core and not the switch? Recently I was lucky to find a new rebuilt switch that stopped my leak.
I am sure the repair route can work. Trick is to find the person that still does it.

looks like the filling station has a rebuild available on the valve, if this is the same thing?

https://store.fillingstation.com/detail/FS-299/Chevrolet_RANCO_HEATER_VALVE_REBUILD.html

a lot of places either don't have a '62 heater core listed or they have the heater core like I have in my '65 listed as fitting them all, which I do not think is correct for your application, from looking at your photos.

I'll poke around a little more, see if I get lucky.

-Woog

update/edit:

found a few listed, but not sure if they are the same as in your photos... judging from your photo angles and theirs, but check these out below. Good luck!

rockauto.com has several listed for a '62 chevy c10 truck, the ones toward the bottom may be like the one in your photos, but not sure. check it out. nevermind, out of stock, but check the photos anyway.

listed, but dunno if is it correct or not:

https://www.cjponyparts.com/c10-heater-cores/c/5511/?product_year_c10=4213

ebay has several listed, check the details.

lmc is all backordered

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/3145850.html

advance auto parts shows them in their system/website(they may have to order it).

https://www.npdlink.com/product/core-heater-copper-brass-9-12-x/194461/100664?year=1962


classicparts has two listed for 60-63:

https://www.classicparts.com/1960-63-Heater-Core-Standard-Heater/productinfo/68%2D225/

https://www.classicparts.com/1960-63-Heater-Core-Standard-Heater-Copper-Brass/productinfo/68%2D225C/

Woog, appreciate your time consuming research. All of the links show the standard 2 pipe replacement core. These are an option if I choose to eliminate the valve. The Ranco valve shown at the Filling Station is different than mine. I spoke with a friend who as a youngster helped his father scrap several thousand vehicles. He distinctly remembers the ‘62 being different than others in how the heater control valve bolted directly on to the heater core and sealed with a o-ring. I’m going to try a radiator shop this week and if that doesn’t work I’ll probably do like most others and change types of cores and put in a shutoff valve. Thanks for your help.

You are welcome.

Yeah, I felt like something was off, but wasn't sure with the photos to compare.

Well, good luck with finding a good radiator shop. The last time I needed one, my old one had closed and my mechanic had to call around to find me one in business.

I did notice Jim Carter's has a few different shut off valves listed, if you go that route.

-Woog

Well, back to square one. Two years ago, as I was leaving one of the local Flaps in the ‘62 C-10, antifreeze started running out under the dash onto the passenger floorboard. Typical heater core leak symptom, right? Being the procrastinator that I am I just bypassed the core and ignored the problem. I don’t drive it much in the winter anyway. Well last week I pulled the core and visually checked for leaks. Couldn’t find any obvious leakage. I figured a pressure test was needed so I began looking for a radiator shop close to me. The EPA has kindly taken care of that for me. Everyone has shut down with exception of one in OKC. He said they are backed up until after the first of the year. They do a lot of oil field related work. I did a lot of searching and so did Woogeroo, to find a new core. After several exhausting hours I did find a couple of places showing the correct tank at prices well over the $275 mark. Add in a replacement valve for another $350 and it went quickly out of my price range. This morning I thought with a little ingenuity I could rig up a way to pressure test the core myself. No problem getting things set up and upon pressuring up to about 20psi with water absolutely no leaks. Yup no leaks found. The only thing I had done was remove the control valve and put a small bead of Red RTV around where the valve seals to the tank and put the valve back on. The mechanical part of the valve operates as it should but I didn’t test the thermostat part of it. My question now is, where was it leaking and do I just put it back in the truck? Suggestions.

Did you pressure test the valve also? It looks like there's quite a bit of green stuff on it, maybe indicating leakage residue.
It may only leak in certain positions thru a stem seal. Hope you can get it figured out.

Kevin, I tested it installed on the core only flowing one way. I will test it for flow the other way.

Bingo...... I reversed the flow putting the water to the valve first and it leaked like crazy. So now I have a choice to make. Send the valve off to be rebuilt by a professional or put in the readily available, much cheaper, standard heater core that doesn’t have a control valve in it.

Thanks to all those that helped.

back when I first got my '65, a previous owner had a heater valve installed off a pipe coming off the engine to the heater core, looked just like a hot water heater valve from the hardware store, push/pull cable setup. It eventually broke so I took it off, but it worked great for keeping it 'not too hot' .

Just an idea.

good luck,

old trucks are fun.

I think that will be the plan moving forward. I can get a cable operated heater control valve at any of the FLAPS. Truck is by no stretch of the imagination stock, so original is not necessary. Thanks