The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay '58 Restored Apache w/ 235 - I get nothing

Help. I have a completely restored 1958 Apache with a rebuilt 235 6-cylinder (12-volt electrical system) and have been driving the truck since October/November of 2019 when we picked it up following the frame-off restoration.

This truck is driven often, just not a daily driver.

Now, when I close the battery disconnect, as I always do before starting, and sit behind the wheel, turn the key to power and press the starter I get nothing. There are no headlights, no horn, no turn signals, no radio, and nothing when I press the starter. The only light that comes on when I turn the light nob counterclockwise is the dome light. I always disconnect the battery when I `am not driving just so this kind of thing will not happen.

I an thinking the battery might be dead, so I charge the battery, try again and still I get nothing.

Looking for a clue (Raleigh, NC) as to where to start troubleshooting.

Thanks for any help.

John

I would first inspect the disconnect switch. Use a test light and check that power is going into the switch, close it and see that power is coming out the other side. If not the problem is in the cut off device. Has the ignition switch ever given you any trouble? I would use the test light and a schematic showing the switch and the connections. Ground the test light, locate which lead comes from the battery and insure you have voltage to the ignition switch. If you do, turn the switch on and see if you have power coming out the other side. If not you probably have a switch problem. Also check all the connections to see if they are tight and clean from corrosion. Just a WAG, but I am thinking you battery cut off switch is the problem.

Well you don't say where you put the cut off switch. That is important for us to be able to diagnose this because if it's on the battery cable, then you must have other little wires from the battery post. If not, the dome light is coming on from lightning far away or you are combing your hair too close to it.

Another "WAG" question: Does the horn honk? it's the only other thing besides the dome that gets energized by grounding.
Obviously you need to turn the cut off switch to on, and follow the voltage with an ice pick test light to see where it is to be or not to be...that is the question.

Thanks Mike. Excellent suggestions. Plan to start on those today.

John

Bartamos,

More good suggestions. have not checked to see if the horn works, but i will! Not combing my hair, so that is not the reason for the light in the upper back of the cab coming on. Will also check that battery disconnect. I did not install the knife blade style, but the nob style.

Lots of battery disconnect switches do not have the amperage capacity to handle starter current. Unless you use a disconnect with at least a 500 amp rating, it will burn out quickly, and a 1K amp switch is better. The average low cost disconnect only has a 100 amp rating.
Jerry

Jerry,

I did remove the battery and had it checked at the local, and close by, auto parts store. The battery checked perfect.

Came home, removed and cleaned the battery disconnect switch and reinstalled it on the negative battery terminal. Reconnected the cable to the positive terminal and started the truck.

Amazing. There was not much of a sign of any corrosion on the battery terminal connections or posts, but there may have been "just" enough.

Be sure and check the current rating of the disconnect. Momentary surge current through the starter windings can go as high as 500-600 amps or so, and it's not a matter of "if" but "when" the low-amp switch will fail permanently. We used the 1K amp disconnects on all the race cars we built. There's no such thing as having too much current capacity.
Jerry

Thanks Jerry!