I’m starting to work on my 1947 1/2 ton again after installing a 1955 2nd 235 engine, T5 transmission and re-wiring it. Now I want to update my front suspension with either a MII or a Jaguar XJ6. I want to try to keep the 235 in the stock mounting locations. The trouble I think I’m going to have it the rack and pinion hitting the oil pan. I been searching and emailed some companies to ask but can’t find the answer I’m looking for. I want to know what MII you guys are using with the inline 6 engine and rack not hitting? Or if a Jaguar XJ6 will clear the 235’s oil pan since it’s behind the cross member? Thanks guys.
The 235 will weigh about 630 lbs or more, about 100+ more than the typical 350 which is most often used with the MII. Back when I was searching I found (https://www.scottshotrods.com). They said their kit would clear. Also the ride height is adjustable towards a somewhat stock appearance. The last time I checked Fatman's, in my area, they would not do the M2 IFS with the inline-6.
Sorry for the preaching. I just want to make sure you are aware then you can do what you want. The IFS affects the number 1 concerns. Steering and braking. Safety needs to be primary in your thoughts. Your desire(s) second. I would find a competent rod shop to do the installation unless you are an experienced welder and metal worker (definately not shade tree). Talk to you insurance company first and see if they will cover the modification. If you do your own conversion, without telling the insurance company and cause an accident, well I hope you are rich. Don't be the one to squash an SUV full of kids because of faulty work.
Last edited by buoymaker; 11/10/20212:26 PM.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
If you're looking for a front ride height that makes the truck look like a hound dog that just had a close encounter with a skunk, you're probably going to have steering clearance problems with the 235. A normal-looking ride height will most likely also solve the interference concerns.
Buoymaker beat me to the punch about "safety first". There are enough rolling deathtraps masquerading as "resto-mod" stoveblots on the road already!
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I started to join in but this time I remembered. This is the Hipo shop. I was reminded of that a few times in the past. Recommending not doing something a guy wants to do in the HiPo shop.......is off topic.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
There are many choices for ifs that are not Jag or MII. Aspen/Volarie have everything at the very front of the frame, Crown Vic is designed for a front sump pan, we put a Dakota ifs in a 56 GMC with a 300 Ford six, for just a few examples. The MII CAN be modified with a dropped center section, just install with front and rear bracing before cutting out center. We have used MII's with rear mounted VW racks if this would work out. Racks can be moved as long as the tie rods are parallel to floor when finished which requires custom steering arms. My advice for anyone doing a steering-suspension mod is to FIRST read up on the subject so you actually know what is happening geometry wise rather than just cutting and welding. Two more things: this is a HIPO site so the purists have no reason to click on it and second safety should be the primary concern on ANY site. I hope your install is a bit cleaner than this customers 51 Ford PU that has been driven three (scary) years with a 455 Olds engine. Nova clip is open for a few improvements. We have pretty much seen it all.
The comments about Purist and Hipo Shop are understood and accepted. In return please respect the original enough to make something of value, not scrap metal.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
The booger welds in the pictures posted by Coilover look painfully familiar. The guy that schmucked up my frame prior to my ownership must still be at large.
Talk to you insurance company first and see if they will cover the modification.
HAHA! If any of asked our insurance companies for permission for modifications, this thread, this forum and our entire hobby would never exist. Ditto for asking the DMV for restoration advice.
That's the kind of attitude ambulance chasing lawyers love- - - - -it keeps them in business. Of course, some guys would say the same thing from the witness stand while the try to convince a jury that losing their steering and hitting that soccer mom in the minivan with a load of kids really wasn't their fault. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Most of the MII kits, it doesn't matter what brand, will give a 4-5 inch drop. They come with steering c notch kits which allow for tie rod clearance. When it comes to the long 235, it creates clearance issues. I am also using an inline 6, not a 235, but it has some clearance issues also. I bought a CPP crossmember and added 1.25" to the lower crossmember and trimmed the same amount from the top hats. It alleviated most of the clearance issues and no frame notching is required.
Anyhow, most IFS manufacturers can build a unit to your specs or you can buy a universal kit and cut and trim yourself.
I've posted this before on how to raise back to factory height when using an MII ifs. The pictured unit is a Heidt's using coil over shocks. Frame is upside down but will raise the engine about 3.5" above the ifs. This means shock rates and sway bar will most likely need increased rate.
In 1971 at the Macau Grand Prix, an all-fiberglass Honda GP car crashed along the sea wall at around 140 MPH. They found the driver's torso in one piece of the car and his legs in the other. That car had no frame- - - - - -just steel plates laminated into the glass body to bolt in the engine, trans, suspension etc. The difference about race cars of all types is that all the participants are there by choice and they are aware of the hazards. If the people who have to share public roads with vehicles like the one in the picture above were aware of just how unsafe they are, they would be horrified. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Most of the MII kits, it doesn't matter what brand, will give a 4-5 inch drop. They come with steering c notch kits which allow for tie rod clearance. When it comes to the long 235, it creates clearance issues. I am also using an inline 6, not a 235, but it has some clearance issues also. I bought a CPP crossmember and added 1.25" to the lower crossmember and trimmed the same amount from the top hats. It alleviated most of the clearance issues and no frame notching is required.
Anyhow, most IFS manufacturers can build a unit to your specs or you can buy a universal kit and cut and trim yourself.
Whitedog. Can you post some pics of how your crossmember came out. I was looking at the same crossmember From CPP or a universal MII. So by adding & cutting the 1.25” you lowered the crossmember, top hats and rack.
I came across some other pictures you may find useful. One is a dimensional diagram of the MII IFS, which is basically the same dimensions that everyone uses. The other is the TCI style upper mount. I like it better than the T-bolt style which I have.
On another note. I've seen someone use an Ifs kit for a 55-59 truck on a 47-54 frame. The 55-59 is just slightly wider. They didn't want a dropped truck look, but wanted IFS. They welded the lower crossmember to the bottom of the frame. Then welded the upper hats to the side of the frame. From the side profile of the truck, you can't tell they did anything, it looks stock.
