The interior of my 53 pickup is patched up and painted. I am ready to start installing all of the internal components. This is probably a dumb question, but, is there any particular good order to do this. I don't want to get it half done and then have to tear it back out because I got ahead of myself.
Mike Burns 1940 Chev 1/2 ton 1953 Chev 1/2 ton 1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe 1947 Indian Chief 1943 Indian 741
The seat would be the last to install. Doesn’t matter if you install the dash components or the gas tank first, but installing the dash components is easier with the seat out. You can cut a piece of plywood to lay across the seat riser and block up the front of the plywood to make a nice place to lie while working under the dash. You could even add a cushion! I would even install the ceiling with the seat out.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joe Dude I make cardboard headliners for my beaters,that way when I tear it I can just go ahead and demolish it !! Have learned to put 24 ozs. of moth balls above headliner to hold off the mice. Lasts about a winter here we have a lot of rodents !!
I would add about 2" of water in the bottom. That drowns the little buggers, and they have a hard time jumping out of the water. I did that with an old bucket when we were staying at an old cabin, but the bucket had been shot full of holes, and they used the bullet holes to climb back out. We heard lots of them fall into the bucket and climb out all night long.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
A new from factory AD cab allows mice to enter because it’s “the cab that breathes” Mice can fit through the parking brake hole in early cabs But also through the A Pilar bottom drain vent hole on all cabs Then they climb up and pop out high under dash To stop these openings I use stainless steel wool in the bottom of the pillars under the lower door hinges and I made custom better fitting floor sponge seal supports out of metal that sit ontop the transmission There are also two drain vent holes on the back corners of the cab but these seem perhaps just small enough maybe mice can’t get in there, but more stainless steel wool can’t hurt much So far the mice can’t get into my 1950 now but they are rampant in everything else. -s
In upstate NY we used a five-gallon bucket and old radiator fluid that had anti-freeze it it (and a "plank" for the mice/rats/squirrels walked into the bucket). No worry about freezing.
We put peanut butter on the "roller" - it attracted the varmints.
