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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 798
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 798
I am interested in installing a pair of headlight relays in my 1948 Chevy ½ ton truck. I am using original Guide 6V black metal back headlamps. I want to try to improve the brightness of both the low and high beams. I hope to locate a pair of working Delco-Remy #1116789 relays from a fellow Stovebolt member. I understand that modern relays are available at much less expense; I want the old-school look. From what I have been able to glean, the installation looks to be quite straight-forward. It appears either #10 or #12 wire is acceptable. Is the best placement of the relays side-by-side or stacked on the driver's side inner fender near the front lamp? Any and all insights related to this project are appreciated. Thank you.

LUKE
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Joined: May 2015
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,086
What you're contemplating is easily do-able. I did a similar deal on my F250. The smaller wires for the headlights go from the fuse block, up to the dimmer switch on the steering column, then back to the headlights. I refitted a couple of relays to route the power directly from the first terminal after the battery using heavier wire and used the stock wiring to trigger the relays. That boosts the voltage that the bulbs actually get.

When you do that, be sure to install a fuse on both the high and low beam power circuits. If that's what that fuse on the relay does, then you're good to go.

If you can't find the old school relays, you could use modern ones and hide them under the dash or some other inconspicuous place.

Last edited by klhansen; 11/03/2021 5:55 PM.

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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W
Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
W Offline
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Posts: 8,597
I would mount them both on the pass. side near the lights. Run a hot lead 10 gauge off the bat or starter term. to each relay & a 10 g. wires from the relays to the lights. One relay for high beam & one for low beam. Use the original wires off the dimmer switch to each relay.

George


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
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B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
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Joined: May 2005
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I would convert to a 12V system instead of band-aiding a 6V system.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Joined: May 2015
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,086
Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret.
I would mount them both on the pass. side near the lights.
I think you meant driver's side. The wiring splits there and only the passenger side headlight feed goes to the passenger side.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.

Moderated by  Jon G, Rusty Rod 

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