I recently took the plunge and purchased a 1960 C10 Apache. It's not running but appears complete and all original. I just received the shop manual in the mail and plan on educating myself about how best to see about getting the truck running again. My first priority is to replace the tires so I can roll it a bit and feel safer underneath. It's got a lot of gunk buildup on and under the engine and surface rust on the body and frame but no holes in the body or floor. There was a note from the original purchaser that had some details about where it's from. I am pretty confident it's been local to me in Tucson, AZ it's whole life. It's been sitting in a carport for the last 40 years.
I plan on replacing what needs replacing to get it going again, and keeping it relatively stock. I have no plans to lower the truck or fully restore to car show quality, just bring it back to life and use it around town for truck things.
Stovebolt has a Tech Tip on starting the Engine after a long sleep. Click on Tech Tips at the top of the page. Read and follow, it could save you hundreds of dollars.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Looks like a good truck to start with. Being a desert truck helps. This truck looks like the one that was up for sale here a few months back, and the poster never replied back to any questions. It appears that thread got deleted.
Shane
Shane's Toys... 2007 Forester XT Limited (2nd Owner) 1991 Cherokee Laredo (2nd Owner) 1981 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside 8,600 Camper Special (3rd Owner) 1965 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside (3rd Owner)
Not too long ago I came home from work and my 65 C10 had had a massive blowout on one tire. It was just sitting in the carport. I had been under it many times wihout jackstands, but now I don't get under there without them in place and I would advise you to do the same. Don't trust the tires
Not too long ago I came home from work and my 65 C10 had had a massive blowout on one tire. It was just sitting in the carport. I had been under it many times wihout jackstands, but now I don't get under there without them in place and I would advise you to do the same. Don't trust the tires
I was under my '65 a few months ago and got to looking at the tires, and immediately went and got jack stands. My thinking was that I was done for if a tire decided to give out while I was under there. They're still holding air, but when I get under that truck, because the tires are old, I always put jackstands under before I begin work.
Shane
Shane's Toys... 2007 Forester XT Limited (2nd Owner) 1991 Cherokee Laredo (2nd Owner) 1981 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside 8,600 Camper Special (3rd Owner) 1965 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside (3rd Owner)
Not too long ago I came home from work and my 65 C10 had had a massive blowout on one tire. It was just sitting in the carport. I had been under it many times wihout jackstands, but now I don't get under there without them in place and I would advise you to do the same. Don't trust the tires
yeah these tires have deep cracks and are pretty old. I only had a pair of stands and I don't trust the other tires to hold the weight even though they are still holding air. I debated getting some cheap tires for now just to use as rollers but I figure just get a decent set now that I can (hopefully) drive around on once it's running again.
Originally Posted by DoubleDingo
I was under my '65 a few months ago and got to looking at the tires, and immediately went and got jack stands. My thinking was that I was done for if a tire decided to give out while I was under there. They're still holding air, but when I get under that truck, because the tires are old, I always put jackstands under before I begin work.
Yikes. I know it's probably unlikely to happen without warning but I wasn't willing to risk it either.
Welcome to the ‘bolt! Solid looking truck! Here in the northeast we don’t see much of that. Nice start to whichever direction you go.
Best advice I can give, is to get it running, sort out the mechanicals (steering, suspension, brakes, etc.), than drive the heck out of it before you make your decision as to which direction you want to go. Good Luck!
Last edited by Phak1; 11/02/202112:08 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Another “Welcome” is in order. I’ve been messing with my trucks for 10 years. I’ve learned to enjoy them “as is”. Unless you have a blank schedule, taking the whole truck apart for a ground up rebuild often results in loss of momentum and enthusiasm. So take the advice already shared. Fix the things that will make it safe to drive. Then drive it a bit until you decide what MUST be done next. Thanks for sharing.
Nice truck. Not much of a project. Looks to be done. Get it running. Redo brakes. And drive. Welcome to the group.
Thanks, going to start on the stovebolt guide today
Originally Posted by Phak1
Welcome to the ‘bolt! Solid looking truck! Here in the northeast we don’t see much of that. Nice start to whichever direction you go.
Best advice I can give, is to get it running, sort out the mechanicals (steering, suspension, brakes, etc.), than drive the heck out of it before you make your decision as to which direction you want to go. Good Luck!
The column shifter was really stiff but after I moved the arms around manually under the hood it moves better. It's fun and satisfying (so far) to tinker and learn
Originally Posted by Lugnutz
Another “Welcome” is in order. I’ve been messing with my trucks for 10 years. I’ve learned to enjoy them “as is”. Unless you have a blank schedule, taking the whole truck apart for a ground up rebuild often results in loss of momentum and enthusiasm. So take the advice already shared. Fix the things that will make it safe to drive. Then drive it a bit until you decide what MUST be done next. Thanks for sharing.
yes I am very happy to avoid a complete teardown and body work. I like the truck as it sits and look forward to tackling one area at a time
I pulled the valve cover off and it’s clear the truck has been sitting and neglected for longer than I thought. I expect I’ll have to tear everything apart and see if I can get it going again. I don’t think the truck is ready for the recommended engine revival procedure based on how this area looks.
I see this book recommended, opinions on this or other resources I can use?
Deve Krehbiel Chevrolet Inline-6 Engine: How to Rebuild
I am not proud if it, but I drove my 250 like that for a yr or 2 prior to me getting a chance to replace. Others have suggested adding a qrt of kerosene to your oil and run for 20 minutes at idle and then drain. Kerosene works on some of that gunk. I did this procedure once I removed my valve cover and found what you are looking at.
Last edited by Hambone; 11/06/202112:20 PM.
~ HB 1966 Chevrolet K-10 | Ghost: formerly Flappy Fenders | In the Stovebolt Gallery 1962 Chevrolet C10 1962 Suburban
The flushing procedure works well with Diesel fuel also. There is a specific ratio of Diesel to oil that should be used. Do not drain any oil, you want the crankcase to be overfull. Just a nice high idle and DO NOT DRIVE. Hotrod Lincoln can elaborate if he chooses.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
The gunk you can see there is not his only problem, the keeper and retainer are missing from that first valve. And the adjusting screw is missing from the second rocker.
Thanks all. This truck has been sitting for an unknown amount of time so I don't think any of the idle solutions will work for me. I am new to messing with these engines but based on how this looks it seems like a bad idea to try and start the engine following the stovebolt guide. Perhaps I can clean this mess up manually and soak the rocker assembly to degunk all that and then see how much deeper I need to go. I am open to and appreciate any advice on what I should do. I don't want to damage anything trying to start the engine.
There were a few loose parts sitting in the gunk under the cover although I don't think this is all that's missing. Perhaps more small parts are lurking in the muck. I have seen some youtube videos of folks removing and cleaning out the rocker arm assembly and there is usually an upside down "U-shaped" arch in the center which oil drips from onto the shaft. There was a small tube which was loose under the cover as well (see pics). I am not sure if this is what my engine used instead of the arch piece (the diagrams in the S&M 22 do not show the arch) or if something has fallen apart. There was an extra old head in the cab of the truck when I got the truck, perhaps I can use some of the small parts from that if they clean up well enough.
If I am missing some small parts or end up needing to replace other engine components where do you guys recommend I order from? I know I'll need gaskets and other things like that. I think the PO used some liqud gasket material for the valve cover before. It crumbled away when I lifted the cover off.