I have been searching for a 55-59 GMC/Chevy for a little while and some listings I see are way more of a project than others. Some sellers are abandoning their project and including replacement doors and parts along with a project truck. I don't have the skillset to weld in patches for rusty areas so some of these replacement part options interest me although I have no sense of how nice the replacement parts are. There is one listing for a 1958 Apache I am considering that includes replacement doors from "restoration parts - Dynacorn.com". Are these doors any good? Do they feel cheaper compared to the original parts?
I am not opposed to having work done by a professional or learning to do some of the work myself but I am curious how these parts are viewed by the community. I have been watching a lot of the Gibson63 videos on YouTube and really admire his skills but realistically I won't be able to replicate his work any time soon.
As a general rule most all replacement parts require some massaging to fit properly. If you don’t have bodywork skills you may be better off looking longer and spending a bit more for a truck in nicer shape. They are out there just require a bit more searching. Good luck.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Doors are one part to be careful of. If the door doesn't fit right nothing else will. Why not study up on minor body work. Small dents can be smoothed out with a little body filler. Bondo is not a dirty word if used correctly. George
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super In the Gallery Forum
Thanks. I would like to learn all about it and try my own hand at fixing some things. That Gibson63 guy makes it look easy but he's also able to patch in new metal in all problem areas to preserve the original fit of the doors, fenders, etc. I know I have seen him use the cab corner patches and door skins so those must be OK for the most part. I haven't seen him use a whole new door.
ISTM that all the replacement doors come from a single source, made in Taiwan. These are unlikely to fit properly right out of the box. It's frustrating trying to figure out if it's the cab, doors or hinges that are the problem. If I was buying a project with the doors off, I would plan to have the doors mounted by a professional shop. Knock $2000 off the asking price.
I second Martin's response that you should consider finding a bit nicer truck that doesn't require major body surgery, especially if you are not ready to jump in and do it yourself. In the end you will be ahead money and time. Often, you will find more rust issues than a cursory inspection reveals, especially if you are not an expert on these trucks. Since you live here in AZ you might find a local truck that has only surface rust (although not that many people lived here before 1960). As an aside, I believe there are more vehicles declared desert native than ever existed here then. I even know about someone from the midwest who licensed his vehicles at his second home in AZ and then advertised them as desert originals. Kent
I have personally used reproduction Doors on two TF projects and they fit as good as the originals. Professional shop time is 100$ per hour or more, so it doesn't take any time for a shop to rack up more money fixing a rusted out original than what the repo cost. I've also used repo front fenders on my '56 3100.
As others have said, your money ahead to buy the nicest truck you can...a nice paint job will cost $10K or more and that's not including any major rust repair or panel replacement.
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
Thanks everybody, I definitely would prefer to just buy a single nicely kept/sensibly restored truck and focus on fixing up little things and making it my own but I was considering a somewhat local craigslist ad for 2 Fleetside Apaches (one needing restoration and some rust repair, the other has been rolled so just for some parts) and a pile of reproduction parts mostly because the asking price was cheap(er) than most ads for a single running truck. Realistically I do not have the time, space, tools, and skills to combine all the various parts, repair rusty corners, etc but I was trying to talk myself into it because the listing was in my budget and I was only thinking of the finished product.
I am located in Tucson, AZ
Here are some pics from the listing to give an idea of what's included. I talked to the seller yesterday and may go have a look but I am not sure the project is a good idea for me.
That's a nice pile of parts and it would be very easy to get sucked in. Just keep telling yourself that throwing another $10K at that pile still won't give you a completely restored truck...but adding $10K to your budget might. This kind of deal is only a good deal to the guy that has the skills to do it all in-house.
My .02 cents,
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
My opinion is if you buy a cab for $800, have is match painted to the turquoise truck, swap all the dash and interior into it, you have a $25K truck. Then build/assemble the grey truck and you have a $10K truck ( or more, depending on how nice you make it). Not a whole lot of skill required, just a lot of work that will pay off. Seller says it was "rolled" but don't know how you roll without other damage. I'm thinking something fell on it? Not sure. There are many parts that you won't use, so you can sell them and pay for the paint and other needed parts. None of us has seen the stuff so it's just .02 more cents.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
My opinion is if you buy a cab for $800, have is match painted to the turquoise truck, swap all the dash and interior into it, you have a $25K truck. Then build/assemble the grey truck and you have a $10K truck ( or more, depending on how nice you make it). Not a whole lot of skill required, just a lot of work that will pay off. Seller says it was "rolled" but don't know how you roll without other damage. I'm thinking something fell on it? Not sure. There are many parts that you won't use, so you can sell them and pay for the paint and other needed parts. None of us has seen the stuff so it's just .02 more cents.
I need another few people to pitch in $0.02 so it adds up to $10.5K
The rolled truck’s bed is all bent up, doesn’t look usable. The cab is also a little crunched. I don’t think the passenger door is usable. If the motor is still usable that would be a nice option. I may go look at the package deal next week.
As a general rule most all replacement parts require some massaging to fit properly. If you don’t have bodywork skills you may be better off looking longer and spending a bit more for a truck in nicer shape. They are out there just require a bit more searching. Good luck.
That is quite an ambitious project, even for somebody with skills. I agree with Martin, you will be miles and dollars ahead spending more money and buying something that is running and complete. Maybe something that was restored 10 or more years ago that just needs freshening up. A project like that is going to take allot of time and chances are, you will get frustrated and tired of working on it to the point that you abandon the project before you finish like many others.
Keep looking, there out there. Good Luck!
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum