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| | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 39 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 39 | On second thought, I guess my theory doesn't make any sense since the first/reverse gear is splined to the output shaft and has to slide fore and aft to engage - it's not a constant mesh gear like second and third.
Last edited by Rob-Roy; 10/20/2021 6:05 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 2,208 Insomniac | | Insomniac Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 2,208 | I did have some noise, but after adjusting the pedal properly, it went away. 1" of free play is needed.
Gord 🇨🇦
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1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 39 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 39 | I do have the 1" of free play in the top of pedal per the shop manual.
Thanks for that though. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2019 Posts: 446 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2019 Posts: 446 | with my '63 with that 4 spd, I isolated the sound you are describing to my throwout bearing. Did you replace yours, check adjustment and pedal return springs?
Larry
Old man᠁Old truck᠁neither one goes very fast. All you need in life is TIME, PATIENCE and MONEY.
If you are missing one component, you'll need an abundance of the others two.
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 554 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 554 | A bad throwout bearing would be noisy in just the opposite situation- quiet with the clutch pedal out, noisy when depressed. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,889 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,889 | What lube are you using? Thin synthetics like 85-120, etc. will let the gears rattle around and possibly cause grinding when downshifting. Use 90 weight mineral oil specified for N-series Ford tractors. Tractor Supply stocks it routinely. It's the same as the OEM trans lube.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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| | | | | Joined: Feb 2019 Posts: 4,516 AD Addict & Tinkerer | | AD Addict & Tinkerer Joined: Feb 2019 Posts: 4,516 | I had a similar noise with my ‘52 SM318, and it turned out to be the bearing on the input shaft. I changed that and the pilot bearing and the noise went away.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc BrakesProject JournalsStovebolt Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 39 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 39 | I'm using the GL-1 90 weight mineral oil that the shop manual calls for. You can still get it at NAPA. They had it on the shelf in the back of the store though, not out front.
I tapped the input bearing onto the input shaft because it was a light interference fit. It didn't take much to put it on there, but maybe I warped the inner race. That's the only other thing that I can think of.
One of these days when the engine gives me cause to pull it for a rebuild, I guess I'll have to put in another input shaft bearing. Next time I'll heat the bearing and chill the shaft so it just drops on. | | |
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