The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks 64 C10 replacement of original type door latch

My door latches look to be original and are worn. I ordered original type replacement latches from a reputable seller to try to stop the need to slam doors multiple times to get them to close tightly.
I did not order the catch plates but am doing that now.

The doors currently click once but fail to secure on the second click without closing multiple times. The doors for the most part when they do close, the body lines in acceptable position (after I slam the crap out of them.)

I do have new door seal rubber but I do not think that is the issue.
Although I have put in window mechanisms I have no experience with latches. I really don't want to use the bear claw type.

Any advice or tips that may help me is appreciated.

Hey, I replaced my door seems and had a hard time getting my doors to close past the first catch, really had to lean into them to get to close all the way. After many try I adjusted the striker plate out about 1/4 inch AND loosening the hinge bolts and moving the hinge side of the door out about 1/4 inch. The doors now close tire on the first try and seem to seal well, drive in pouri g rain and no leaks. Door gaps in my opinion are fine, not a show truck. Many after some time I can move adjustments back but so far it's good., lol I just reread, door seals...

I'll try that this morning. I stopped by a body shop along time ago and as I remember they moved the door IN . Which is opposite of what you are saying. I didn't even question their solution. That's when I first started and figured everyone was smarter than me on this stuff.
After working on my other cars for a few years I learned that is not the case. I do as much as I can myself now.

Like I said my truck was getting me around and I was concentrating on the others.

I'll let you know how it turns out. (I'm putting new starter in today also)

Thanks

Bolted, I had luck with one of my doors I moved out the catch plate and my door closes much better. I didn't even think it moved but it did something. I tried on the other side to but not to much luck. I may buy new catch plates as Rhee are pretty worn.

Side note: new starter fixed the starting problem Purrrr

Thanks again.

Good to hear. Just remember, these trucks are not high tech things. Just common sense and patience will prevail. Keep at it, 15 minutes a day.....

The new seals will definatley have an effect on how easy your door closes. I just put some of the glue-on seals on mine and had a heck of a time getting it to get to the second click. After several adjustment attempts and untold heartaches, I took a box cutter and cut a slit all along the crease of the seal because I can hear the air trying to escape as I push on the door, trying to close it. No problem now.

I had the same problem after I replaced my cab seals for the doors. I used the push on type seals they are very thick and putting little round air holes about every ten inches helps the trapped air to get out and looks factory like.
I also had to take and remove the piece below the threshold plates bcuz the new seals pushed the threshold plate up to much causing it to rub on the bottom of my door, it was a very annoying sound and made it even harder to close my doors.
After trimming away the seal off from under the threshold plate my door striker plates had to be adjusted over again but this time it was much easier to adjust and now both my door's close flush and the body line's are straight now and both door's are locking up doing a double click and with normal pressure closing both door's.
I no longer have water coming into my cab from around my two doors.
Next repair will be both my window felt liner's plus both wing window seals and driver side window regulator then the Two Big Jobs front and back window seals. Praying I do them all the right way the first time especially the front and back windows.

Papa Smurff 63