I just received two 6v high/low sea shell style horns, complete with a 6V relay to install on my ‘52 1/2 ton, converted to 12V. I tested them on 12V momentarily and they both work, a bit loud but they do work.
The question I have is, what are my options for installing them.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
They will work fine on 12 volts unless you hold the horn button down for extended periods of time.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Thanks, I was hoping for that answer. Now, to get them cleaned and painted!
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
I recently converted my 53 to 12v. I didn't change anything related to the horn. They are LOUD.
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion. Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
My 6volt horns also love 12 volts. And loud is what a horn is for. Actually, i kinda keep my eye out for em at swapmeets etc., just because they work great.
I use my 6 volt horns on my 51 , that is converted to 12 volts. I replaced the relay with a 12 volt one. I would suggest that it is a good idea to change the relay.
I would suggest that it is a good idea to change the relay.
Thanks for the suggestion. I previously added a relay to my present horn, so that’s not a problem.
Last edited by Phak1; 09/23/20211:05 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Been running 6v horns on my 12v system for 10+ years and they have held up very well. They really get some attention when sounding off.
Craig
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
Phak 1 I guess you could wire them in series to create a single 12 volt load,mine are in paralell and here in deer country you need loud horns. Scared some off last week !!
I wired my horns in series when I switched to 12-v. I didn't want the first in the series to be grounded so I used several sheets of plastic (from a plastic milk jug) under its base and nylon bolts and nuts to hold it on the firewall. I don't know if this was necessary but it seems it couldn't hurt.
34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
I had the Ah OOO gah! horn from my Dad's Model T (I guess the horn came from a Model A?) on my '70 Malibu for awhile. Worked fine but sounded awful on 12 volts. Instead of the cool Ah OOOOO Gah it just did a very loud BLAAAAAAAAAT! oh well.
~ John
A kid raised on Hotwheels, Matchbox and Tonka cannot be reasonably expected to own only one vehicle as an adult.
1949 Chevrolet 3804 In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum 1973 IH 1310 Dump 1963 Kaiser M38A1 2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie" 2014 Ford E-350 4x4 (Quigley)
Phak 1 I guess you could wire them in series to create a single 12 volt load,mine are in paralell and here in deer country you need loud horns. Scared some off last week !!
Good Idea! I’ll wire them on the bench to see how they sound.
Originally Posted by Wally / Montana
I wired my horns in series when I switched to 12-v. I didn't want the first in the series to be grounded so I used several sheets of plastic (from a plastic milk jug) under its base and nylon bolts and nuts to hold it on the firewall. I don't know if this was necessary but it seems it couldn't hurt.
Another good Idea! I’ll have to persue this if I like the way they sound.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
If you've got metter that is a VOM Witch is a Volt , Ohm Metter. Or will purchase one from a cheep sight. I can take you thru a equation that will allow you to purchase a or and resistor to do this a lot simpler.
What you'll do is to figure What The resistance is buy measuring the Hot to Neutral and blow the horn with the meter set to a r or ohm value .
Now you got the value of Ohms or the resistance of the circuit. At 12 volts
If you will multiply the Ohms by 2 you'" get a figure for resistance at 6 Volt.
Now go buy a resistor that droups the ohms but this much
Related question: I let ALL of the smoke out of my harness and had to perform a complete wiring delete (all the insulation was rotted). Can anyone share how the horns are wired? I have both the seashells on the firewall and the bell on the intake.
There will be a wire coming down from your steering wheel through the steering column and out again about 16~18 inches from the steering wheel. It will be held in place by metal clip and screw. This wire connects to another wire which leads to your horn relay...and generally your relay will have 3 connections. Don't know how yours is marked, but here's general convention: One will be marked H (here you'll connect a wire going off to your horns), B (here you'll connect a wire going to the + side of your battery...most folks do not run it through the ignition so that the horn could be honked without the key) and S (connect this to the horn button---the wire I mentioned first). And that's it. Good luck.
Last edited by Jon G; 10/16/20212:52 PM.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
I used 12 gauge wire and fuse between the 12v supply and the “B” terminal (labeled 3 on the relay I bought from Classic Parts). You can take your 12v power from the lug on the starter that holds the positive battery terminal.
The horn button “S” is labeled 5 and the horn “H” is labeled 1.
Last edited by Phak1; 10/16/20219:42 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Hi....I think they'll work with 12V, however they will vibrate at a higher recurrence and accordingly solid unique, and have a significantly more limited life. I would utilize a voltage drop (accessible from Radio Shack or a car parts store) assuming you need to be mindful.