The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 1955 2nd 4400 Interior Refresh

I'm wanting to work on the interior of my truck a little bit to make it more comfortable. Right now its loud, bouncy, hot and smelly. I know most of this is the nature of the beast but I want it to be more tolerable.

Currently there is nothing 'soft' in the cab except the the bench seat - no firewall pad, no headliner, no floor covering, no visors. It seems like I should be able to make a significant improvement to it. However, I don't want to dress it all up and have it get ruined by the elements or rodents. Its very much a rough farm truck.

My plan of attack is a firewall pad, rubber floor mat, headliner and door seals. Additionally my vent windows don't close completely are cracked and missing latches. Lastly, lots of open holes in the cab that need plugged.

1. Fix the vent windows, I think new glass and latches plus material that goes between the glass and vent window frame. (Whatever that is called?)
2. Door seals
3. Plug the cab holes (Some kind of rubber grommet plug)
_. I might repaint the interior to originalish colors.
4. Firewall pad
5. Add some peel and stick sound deadening
6. Floor mat
7. Headliner

Any suggestions to products to use for the above?

Any other things I should do to improve the livability in the cab?

I'm also concerned my expectations may be a little high - I know there are plenty of very high end customs done that have really nice carpeted leather interiors that obviously stay dry and rodent/dirt proof - I'm not after a high end luxury interior like that but I want it to stay dry and clean - befitting what I would consider a daily driver (less A/C).

All input is appreciated.

All of the above corrections will certainly help, but there will still be a lot of road noise compared to a modern car/truck.

As for the rodents, you do need to address that before investing any time in the interior, not knowing how you store the truck I really can't offer any suggestions.

Buying a complete vent window frame assembly might be the easiest way to tackle that project.

This is a very slippery slope you're about to go down...lots of additional things to do will pop up with each thing you try to fix...especially when you get ready to replace the firewall pad as everything passing through it needs to be removed.

Mike B

Do an Internet search on mouse trap in a 5 gallon bucket

I do not want to post a link - Stovebolt.com had been infected by the WebSearch virus (that could spread to your browser).

I recently replaced my firewall pad and as Mike B stated, you have to remove most of what passes thru. My main harness passes thru the pad in the upper left side, about two inches from the side. I slit the pad so I did not have to cut and splice the harness. You can’t see that area without crawling under the dash, so it didn’t matter to me. I also replaced the floor mat and added a pad to that too. It helps with the noise and helps insulate the floor from engine heat. I removed the clutch, brake, parking brake and gas pedal so I didn’t have to slit the mat.

Since most of what passes thru the firewall is removed, it’s a good time to replace all the grommets to help seal up the holes in the firewall.

Here is the post on installing the firewall pad. https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...irewall-pad-for-52-3100.html#Post1416053

Here is the post on installing the floor mat. https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...-chevrolet-3100-project.html#Post1414613

Thanks for the replies.

From the linked threads it sounds like I should get a noticeable improvement.

I wasn't remembering the floor mat going up past the pedals, those and the shifter and brake handle would be the only concerning obstacles to that endeavor. I would likely slit the firewall pad however needed to get it installed.

I've been plugging some holes with some rubber grommet/plugs I had, still some to go though.

Anyone seal up the door hinge holes? Those look like they are inboard of the exterior door seals and could allow rodents in, or is the cavity where the door hinge jamb is not accessible to rodents?

Another area I've been wondering about is behind the seat at the cab corners, stuff can fall down in those holes and basically be down there forever. Dirt, nests, bugs, water, whatever - with no way to fall or drain on out the bottom. What is everyone doing about that area? I have yet to sacrifice the shop vac by sticking it down in the hole to see what it pulls out of it.

If mice are that bad that you're asking if they can get in via the hinge pockets, you have a bigger problems...they can get into anything. So, why not set some traps and end the problem. Lots of DIY 5-gallon buckets traps on YouTube...,happy hunting!

The rear corner pockets originally had a weep hole at the welded seam so water would drain out. You have to crawl under the truck to see them.

I left my corner pockets open as original...and I sealed the drain holes so water can't be forced up into the pocket when driving in the rain.

Putting some DynaMat inside the doors will help quiet them down. Just stick it to the inside of the outer skin covering as much as you can get to...doesn't need to cover 100%.

Mike B

Certainly have plenty of mice around, really my concern is that seems to be the only other large hole that might provide an entry point. Trying to gauge if that concern is legit or not.

Regardless, I think I will be trying to use materials less susceptible to rodents - I'm thinking against the jute pads that they like to shred up for nest material.

A mouse can get through a hole smaller than a dime.