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Fixing the old truck

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Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 332
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
O Offline
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Can anyone identify this rim? I got rid of my widowmakers and was offered these, but I don't know if they would be better.
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Last edited by Peggy M; 08/29/2024 5:54 PM. Reason: added more info to the title

1954 Chevy custom 261CID, T-5 5 Speed.
1952 Chevy 6400 2 ton hydraulic flat bed.
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F
'Bolter
'Bolter
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oldieoldie My 51 6400 came with those on the front 90% rubber working fine after 8000 local miles.

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'Bolter
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In my opinion the 3 piece was the safest multi piece wheel you could get in those days. These look pretty rusty. Be sure to inspect them inside. Otherwise, by design, they were the most desirable for tube type tires.

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O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Is this a 3 piece rim then? It would be ok if not too rusty? I really don’t know what I’m looking at to know if they are safe. I would plan to blast and paint whatever I get.


1954 Chevy custom 261CID, T-5 5 Speed.
1952 Chevy 6400 2 ton hydraulic flat bed.
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
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Those are 10 on 7.25” bolt pattern, rarely found as tubeless rims starting in late ‘50’s. If found can use modern 9 x 22.5” tires.

Ed
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'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
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O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Won’t they be for 20 inch tires? I’d love 22.5 rims but haven’t found any.


1954 Chevy custom 261CID, T-5 5 Speed.
1952 Chevy 6400 2 ton hydraulic flat bed.
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,189
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Yes you are correct, ALL 20" rims are multi-piece tube type rims...ALL 22.5" rims are one piece tubeless.

The only multi-piece rim that's been "outlawed" is the Firestone RH-5...all other multi-piece rims are still serviceable as long as they are not damaged or rusty.

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1956 8400 Wrecker w/Holmes 525
1956 9200 Tractor w/Allison Automatic
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1953 Willys M38A1 Fire Jeep
1978 Jeep CJ-5 Navy Jeep
1984 Jeep CJ7
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Hughesville, MD
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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The wheel in your photo uses a full circle bead ring retained by a small diameter split ring that's wedged into a groove in both pieces as the tire inflates. As long as the grooves and the lock ring aren't severely rust damaged, they're perfectly safe once full inflalation pressure is reached. Once the old tires are removed, work the lock ring area on all the pieces over with a wire cup wheel on an angle grinder down to bare metal, and do a detailed inspection.

NEVER, EVER TRY TO ADD AIR TO A TIRE ON A MULTI-PIECE RIM THAT'S NOTICEABLY LOW- - - -flat, or with a bulged sidewall, for instance. The lock ring relationship could be compromised, resulting in a deadly rim separation.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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'Bolter
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oldieoldie Now this is just my opinion but when you blast any metal that is very rusty you really lose a lot of it's integrity. My 51 3600 homemade dually rear wheels were solid so I just used the needle scaler ( like a welder uses) painted with por 15 2 coats. Then put on new rubber,that's been 15 years ago hauled a lot of wood since. Still just fine !

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'Bolter
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oldieoldie One other thing use a clip-on air chuck and long hose to inflate ,don't trust 70 year old antique wheels.


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