The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Doors Window Channel Installation - Help!

I am trying to install new window channels in my 1949 Chevy truck. I currently have the glass and crank out of the door. Old channel is out. I have tried window channels from two different vendors and have ruined both trying to install them. The problem I have is the window channels want to kink when I try to put them in the doors. I've ordered another set, but really don't want to destroy another set. They are getting expensive. Any advice or tips would be appreciated. I've watched the Youtube videos from USA1 Industries and they make it look like a piece of cake. Unfortunately, I have not had the same results.

The window channel is corrugated metal inside, so should form around corners without kinking. I haven't attempted installing mine yet, but maybe devise a tool like a paddle with the same thickness as the glass to push the channel into the corners. The paddle may prevent the sides from collapsing into the space where the glass goes.

I think I used a heavy paint stick like the ones they give you at big box stores with a 5 gallon bucket of paint.

Good idea. I have about 20 of those.

When I installed my window channels I "fit them to the window" first. I clamped a door window into a vice using paint sticks between the widow surface and vice jaws. I measured the distance of the window channel straight section from the retainer in the bottom of the door door up to the "radius " in the door window opening ( tangent point where the straight part ends and the radius begins ) . I then marked the channel section using that length to establish where the bend would start. I marked the window with a Paint line at that same radius and then placed the channel against the window lining up the two marks and then carefully formed the window channel over the window. This allowed me to make that radius bend very accurately.

I first straighten the channel. I don't know why the manufacturers bend them in the opposite direction. Maybe they naturally bend in that direction without kinking.
I then insert one end into the rear of the door until it engages with the doohickey at the bottom of the door channel. The extra length will go straight up in the air outside of the window opening.
I then carefully make the first bend to fit the radius of rear of the door. The long end of the channel will extend past the front of the cab.
I then carefully make the second bend to fit the radius of the front of the door. This can be done without inserting the channel inside of the door. it can hang outside of the window opening.
I then remove the channel from the door, then install it by inserting both ends into the door channels.
Don't worry about engaging the front end into the doohickey at the bottom of the front door channel. Allow it to go past the end of the door channel at this time, as it will need to be cut to length later.
Now roll the window up to aid in forming the channel to fit the glass. The cornes will have some kinks which can be worked into place with wide screw driver.
Once the channel fits the glass with the window all the way up you can mark the front end of the channel to cut to the proper length and insert it into the doohickey at the bottom of the door channel.

Carl, that is interesting. All the videos I watched showed putting the window felt channel in before putting the window and rolling mechanism in the door.

The Manual instructions describes replacing it with the glass installed.

I know this thread is old - but where did you guys get your channel. I ruined two that were bent the WRONG way from the supplier. Straightening first, then bending correctly didn't work, even using my glass as a form.

They are all bent wrong by the vendors. You just need to go slow and massage them as you go. The metal is crimped up like an accordion, making it possible to get it to work.

What do you mean massage 52Carl? I used an old window glass for a form. I used the paint stir stick technique, I had a channel lock pliers standing by and all ten fingers pressing against a flat table. No success.

I start out by making them straight. I them shove one end into the door until it engages with the little retainer clip at the bottom, leaving the excess sticking straight up on the outside of the window opening.
I them begin the first bend at the upper rear corner of the window opening. Slow as you go, mashing the buckling as they appear with lineman pliers and wide blade screw driver.
Once that corner is done, I move on to next bend (or to mark it to be cut to length at the vent window).
You may not be using the right quantity of beer prior to this operation. That can be detrimental.

I just finished installing mine and Carl’s advice is right on, make it straight first then work in the bend. I used my vice to keep the channel from spreading out as I straightened and bent the channel. As you work, straighten out any kinks before they get too big. I used a lineman's pliers, vice and a piece of 1/4” plywood to help form the channel. I also cut one end of the plywood to the contour of the corner of the window to help drive it further into the corner.

It took me several hours to get them installed. Bend the corner a little bit at a time so it doesn’t kink and you’ll get it done.