Ok so I'm rebuilding my transmission. I got a rebuild kit for it, and while waiting for it I've been researching the web and also found a great YouTube video of a guy rebuilding this exact transmission. One thing after seeing that video I found that they are making a upgrade for the 3rd gear counter shaft, a sleeve spacer is replacing some washers and snap rings to eliminate snap ring failure and failure down the line. Anyway I'm gonna order this part and the top cover rebuild kit. And figured I check with some ppl that have rebuilt this trans, if I should replace anything else while I'm inside of it. All my main gears look fine, so not worried about that. Now one question I do have is about the plastic coating that is on the shift forks? Is this absolutely necessary since there is gear oil flinging up onto everything including the shift forks and sliders that the forks going into? Bcuz my forks coating is a bit wore out but just wanting to know if i should get new forks just cuz of that coating being worn? Also what about the bushings should those be replaced as well? Or should I just check and see if there is any wobble in them?
I found that they are making a upgrade for the 3rd gear counter shaft, a sleeve spacer is replacing some washers and snap rings to eliminate snap ring failure and failure down the line.
Thanks mike[/quote]
That's the spacer I noted in your other post.
BC 1960 Chevy C10 driver 261 T5 4.10 dana 44 power loc 1949 GMC 250 project in waiting 1960 C60 pasture art Retired GM dealer tech. 1980 - 2022
How much would it cost to ship that part to southern illinois? I can get one for like 20 bucks from the site I got the rebuild from. And I'm actually about to order the rebuild kit for the top cover so if it is more then 20 bucks or not really worth your time I could just get one ordered with that kit.
And yeah I wasnt aware of that in the other post. Found out about it after you were mentioning it and I was just wiping the drool off my mouth cuz I had no clue what you were saying haha. That's why I went to do more research and informed myself of what's what in there. Which I'm still not 100% which is what but I could figure it out to get it done.
Hey so back to the rebuilding of the sm465. I got it pretty close to busted all apart. But I just got noticed the speedo gear "bushing" and the gear in the housing piece. I actually just put a 2 speed rear diff in my truck and my speedometer is way off cuz of it. Are these gears replaceable? And is there a chart for what gear goes with what rear diff gear ratio for accurate speed?
Not sure what year or size truck you're working on, but all 2-speed trucks from the factory would have a small 2-speed ratio adaptor inline with the speedometer cable. The vacuum shift axles had a vacuum shift adaptor and the electric axles had an electric adaptor. This keeps the odometer and speed indication accurate regardless of which range you're in.
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
72 c50. And yes I got the factory cable with the inline adapter for my speedometer from the donor truck. But like I said the cable isnt spinning at the right speed for my dash to be accurate. It works and everything even when I switch from hi/lo it changes so it's working just not turning at the proper speed. Which is why I'm thinking that gear that turns the cable isnt the right size(like tooth count). When in driving in 4th gear hi range on the highway I'm driving about 55-60mph my gauge reads 30mph. I feel like it's not to far off in lower gears but once I get into fourth gear it gets to be like 15-20mph off. However the donor truck did have a different transmission in it, I believe it was a spicer 5 speed. So whatever the gearing is in that they changed the tooth count on the speedo housing piece for accurate speed gauge.
1st pic is the rear housing piece with speedo housing gear. 2nd pic is rear part of shaft with threaded bushing for turning the speedo gear. 3rd pic is driveshaft mount/emergency brake mount.
And one thing I just remembered when taking it apart that driveshaft yoke part was kind of loose like it had about a 1/4" of movement back and forth on the splines. The nut was pretty tight but once I got it all apart, it seems that yoke needs to be tight up against that threaded bushing so it can spin appropriately with shaft. I'm guessing if its loose like mine was it may not put enough pressure against bushing pinching it tight so it can spin with the shaft instead of spinning slowly on the shaft. Could this cause my issues? Or am I right about the gearing differance with trans? Cuz if I remember right my speedo worked fine with the original single speed axle. And it only changed when I swapped the rear. So i highly doubt that threaded bushing loosened up when I swapped rear cuz I did absolutely nothing with transmission or that driveshaft yoke up there so it's been loose like that since the day I got it I guess.
