My '40 1/2 ton got delivered on Friday and I've been going through it to see what I bought. I bought it from photos on CL but couldn't pass it up at the price. The VIN plate is the original judging by it's location and what appears to be the original attachment screws. The VIN is 21KC10 2272 which, as best I've figured a '40 built in Janseville in October and was number 2272 off the line. The engine, however, is stumping me. The code stamped into the boss just behind the distributor is LDA5753b3. I'm not sure what this number is. According to the Tech Tips the number should be between 2697268 and 3665902. If someone out there can tell me what the number is that I can find and where to find the other numbers I would appreciate it.
Apologies to Mike. The casting number on the head is 3701887 which, according to Advance-Design.com, is a 1953 235 head which was the "last low pressure 235". When I went to "https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/enginecodes.htm" it shows the "235 prefixes", which, I'm guessing refer to the serial number in the photo I posted. The LDA comes back to a '53 235. Again, apologies to Mike. I completely forgot that the early 235s had the same type of valve cover mounting bolts as the 216s. I'm still trying to locate the block casting number. The date code, just above the starter, is E 5 3, which seems to translate to May 5, 1953. The same source says that the casting number should be between the 3 bolt holes just in front of the distributor. However, there are no numbers on this engine in that location.
I'm wondering if, at some point, a prior owner swapped out the entire drive line from the 216 to the rear end for the 235. As I posted in the Driveline forum, this truck has an open drive line.
I'll keep digging around to try and figure out what is in this thing. It does start up on the first try and runs very smooth. There appear to be a number of new lines (gas, vacuum and electrical) in it as well as a new master brake cylinder and fittings. The trans is a 4 speed.
The block casting number should be located down low on the passenger's side front, just above the oil pan rail. One surefire way to differentiate between a full pressure 235 and the early 235 and 216 engines is the "oil distributor"- - -a roughly triangular shaped sheet metal plate on the driver's side near the exhaust pipe, also just above the pan rail. It has a copper tube beside it which goes through the cooling system to the valve lifter chamber that supplies oil to the rocker arms once enough oil pressure develops to lubricate the lower end of the engine. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I'll have to get down there with some brake clean and see if I can get the rest of the oil/dirt off and see if I can find it. I've looked there and haven't seen any casting numbers. According to the head casting number and serial number on the boss just behind the distributor this is one of the last "low pressure" 235s.
Carl, most do, some don't. For a long time I thought as you said, that the '53 full pressure blocks, specifically those with LAQ-stamped engine numbers, all had the captains bars. But, it's not so. I have in my shop an original full pressure LAQ engine pulled from a '53 PG car, block casting #3701481 that is dated December 4, '52, and no Captain's bars (see the photos). Not sure if it's because it is a very early model year '53 engine, or what, but it shattered that concept for me.
Finally got the grease/dirt off the block where Hotrod said the number is and low and behold there it was. Thank you Hotrod. And it is a '53 235 per the magical decoder section.
So now I have to decide whether to keep it in and fix up the rest of the truck or go all the way and put in another drive train. Since Mama said she'd park in the small garage and give me the whole big garage I'm seriously thinking about doing a V-8 swap. Anyone out there know if I'd need to box the frame if I put in a 283 or 327?
I've been pricing new Mustang II suspension and 4 link rear suspension and they're not too bad. One was even a bolt on package that didn't involve any welding. The current rear end has 5 lug wheels so the conversion to the M II front would match. I'm sure I'll find some other things to use my new (to me) Lincoln 180 on.
