The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
0 members (), 61 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,049
Posts1,055,743
Members48,426
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1417944 07/24/2021 3:59 AM
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
Hello...1950 3100...I am trying to removal the axles and 3rd member but I have ran into a problem. The lock screw that holds in the pinion shaft is a round flat head screw. Everything I have read says it should be a square nut. No problem except I cannot get it out for anything..I am afraid I am going to strip it and be in a real mess. Is this original or perhaps someone has been in this axle before? Any suggestions on getting this out? Thinking of grinding two sides flat and putting vice grips on it but really do not want to do grinding around these type of parts. I don't have any real good way of heating it up either. I looked in the manual and I did not even see a torque tube style depicted?? Sorry should have taken a picture.. I will tomorrow if need be...attached is what it says it should be.
Thanks
Jason
Attachments
RearAxle0004lg.jpg (46.84 KB, 109 downloads)

jasrking #1417962 07/24/2021 12:41 PM
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,201
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,201

Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,307
K
'Bolter
'Bolter
K Offline
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,307
Someone put a different screw in there they may have also put some lock tite also ,use a little heat to loosen the lock tite just in case


1954 Canadian GMC 9300
"The Journey"
Follow in the DITY
Joe H #1417968 07/24/2021 1:42 PM
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 69
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 69


+1 on the impact screwdriver! I got one of these long ago and have used it A LOT more than I ever thought I would. Definitely in the top 5 of my most useful tools.

If you need any parts, I have the internals from my 47 rear end (4.11) that you can have.

Last edited by stlcardinalsguy; 07/24/2021 1:46 PM.

Mason

1947 Chevy 3100
-57 Chevy 235
-95 S10 T5 Transmission
-97 Blazer 3.42 Rear End
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,482
J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,482
It should be a typical nut head and it is very much a specialty screw...long, polished past the threaded part and unique. The one in mine is a hex head nut, for what it is worth. I'd guess somebody didn't have that screw, went to the hardware store and got something that sort of fit and as kevinski said added some loctite. Or possibly epoxy. Hard to say. You may have to drill a hole in it and use a screw extractor. Or as you said, grind or file two sides flat and use vise grips. If you have to do that, just place shop rags around and catch any filings. Good luck!


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,832
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,832
First try heat. Heat very hot and then let cool to give the heat time to migrate rather than just to the screw head. Heat a second time and try impact driver. Be careful as the "annealed" screw will strip out the slot easily. You may also try TWO ball pein hammers to break loose; one held with the flat face on the screw head and the second to whack the first.


Evan
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,337
P
'Bolter
'Bolter
P Offline
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,337
Slotted head bolts were standard on early models.
I have been able to remove stubborn bolts with a small vice-grip.


See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet!
My Blog
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
Here is a pic...how would I know if someone changed the gear ratio before? Thanks for all the advice and offer on parts..very much appreciated..I was really just trying to take off as much stuff as possible to store and make easier to clean prior to paint. I didn't realize the brake shrouds were riveted on or I would not have even cracked this nut open trying to get axles out; but since I have taken the bolts off the third member I have now forced my hand at a new gasket....debating on doing the update on the gears...I haven't tried any of the suggestions yet but will hopefully tomorrow..thanks again...Jason
Attachments
Bolt3.jpg (136.92 KB, 58 downloads)
bolt4.jpg (227.13 KB, 57 downloads)

Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,307
K
'Bolter
'Bolter
K Offline
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,307
You could count the teeth to see what the ratio is ,it should also be stamped on the ring gear itself.


1954 Canadian GMC 9300
"The Journey"
Follow in the DITY

Moderated by  Dusty53, SWEET 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0