The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Wiring Ignition switch?

49 4400. Took out ign switch, got keys made. Used to turn off on right, and on in center w/out key. Now turns on in center, off on right still, yet off on left allows key to come out and won't turn w/out key then. Zat how it works? I pulled three wires off the back of switch, w/out labeling them. Just three terms on switch. I now hooked the three wires back, one to each term, and can't get juice to coil now. It worked before, but not now. I can run truck with jumper wire from starter to coil. My meter shows all the terms on switch hot when on, and not when off. So, I'm thinking no diff how you hook up wires. What you say? I do believe two wires were on one term when first looked at it. Got too dark to mess more with it, but maybe that is my fault/problem? Can't see why when all terms hot when on?? Guess I better get wire diagram out and see what it shows, if anything. Hard to figure out those old rotten cloth wires, they all look the same now and all yellow color, stripes don't show orig color anymore.

strip back the main outer cloth a bit and you might see the color of the individual wires - sounds like you got it wrong - the wires will go different places - one should go to engine compt, one to acc power, and one should come from the ammeter which is the power - you may also have not set up the alternator right - if it's a one wire ya gotta tie a couple wires that used to go to the regulator together, and I think one gets taped off, but too lazy to go downstairs now and try to find the info!! I think the power to the ammeter comes from the batt term on the regulator

if it's a 6cyl, how come ya got a 3position switch? thought they were all just on/off - generic aftermarket switch, or GM?

Bill

Regulator wires are together and taped now, remembered that from my 54. See light switch has no marks or letters to show what terms are for! Think orig switch. Has a little tab on the chrome part, made it hard to get past dash hole. Switch works w/out key in two positions, and locks with key, won't turn in other left "off" position. Right "off" position too, won't lock. Looks like switch in Chevs/40's catalog.

The switch won't turn all the way to left without the key thats normal up thru he early sixtys. The position all the way to the left locks ingnition in place when you remove the key. if you remove key in centerposition you can still turn switch to run position or even around to the start position after they removed the floor starter. I guess it was a conveince factor. Most of the olld trucks my granddad either the key stayed in year round or there were no keys. Seldom a problem only had one instance of someone joy riding and they got the truck stuck before they got far. My 54 I bought wihout the key but they had left it in the center position so thats not been a problem. The 38 had a different type of switch and I lost the key so I just got a briggs and stratton switch and put in and leave key in all the type that way I know where it is.

should be time not type

Stupid me! Found one wire not hooked on switch, and it was the coil wire! Works good now. Still has Off/locked to left, On in middle and off Unlocked to right. Got dome rewired, worn many spots, and changed dash bulbs and tails. Lookin' better each day!

hey GL!! it does help to do them things in the daylight instead of after dinner! glad to hear it's comin together

Bill

Which wires did you tape on regulator. Considering new wiring harness for the 54 4400. Have 12V one wire in place wondered how that would fit in new wiring harness. Currently just have it direct to battery