This is an item on the “when I get around to it” list that I probably need to “get around to.” Never added a proper drain tube or puke tank to my replacement radiator. I now see some evidence that the radiator has, in fact, puked.
Thinking I will do something that looks like a “period” owner modification. An antique milk bottle, large soda bottle, etc.
Curious what various trucks here are running , and some of the mounting and routing detail.
The nipple of the neck of my radiator just has a little flared ridge. I guess for just clamping a rubber hose onto. I’m OK at sweating copper pipe for household plumbing. Can I affix some copper line via solder to the overflow nipple on the radiator? It’s a copper brass radiator.
Sure...you could do that. Just be careful not to get things too hot. You don't want to upset any of the other solder joints there. Period correct? Hmm, let's think a bit. Ideally you'll need something that can have an outlet at the bottom, so a can might be best (unless you're good at drilling holes in glass). 1951...coffee came in cans, tobacco did also, Dr. Pepper came in cone top cans with a common soda bottle cap and some beer did also (Blatz Old Heidelberg I think), Or pancake syrup. Some pancake syrup came in old cans like that. Good luck!
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
I might be a bit confused on the plumbing. I was just thinking a single line in the top of whatever container I choose. What is it that you are describing?
JW, I think Jon is recommending the bottom hole in the container, so that as the engine/cooling system cools, the excess fluid will be pulled back into the radiator. You may accomplish the same thing from the top, if the hose goes all the way to the bottom of the container, as a dip tube. Add a second hole in the top to act as a vent (or leave unsealed. Jon will correct me if I'm off target.
Mine was missing. I topped off the coolant below the overflow hole. Covered the area with a damp towel. Just like a water piper, solder and heat. I used the wrong black paint but it's not a show truck.
You probably know this but there is an original overflow recovery option but parts are hard to find.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
You're on target, Doug. I've seen the two hose in the top types, but I prefer the one with the bottom connection. I have one I bought from J.C. Whitney around 1980. I figured it would last about a year and it is still going strong. Sort of a milky white plastic bottle and a holder frame that connects to the back side of the radiator support. If these are set up right, you never have to mess with your coolant until you think you want to change it or something. I've seen some really elaborate ones with cooling fins and such, but I figure if GM, Toyota, Subaru, Honda, etc use the milky white plastic bottles that's fine with me and probably all I need. They sell the same exact one I got on Amazon. Here it is:
I found the overflow tank Buoymaker shows in his post at a swapmeet table at the Winchester show a few years ago. NOS and still in its original box with the instructions. They are out there.
~ John
"We are not now that strength which in old days Moved earth and heaven; that which we are, we are"
1948 International Farmall Super A 1949 Chevrolet 3804 In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum 1973 IH 1310 Dump 2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie" 2014 Ford E-350 4x4 (Quigley)
I used an antique fire extinguisher as the overflow tank for my 1928 AB Canopy Express (Justin). I cut up an old electric motor mount to use as the overflow tank's brackets.
The inlet tube is clamped to the radiator overflow tube and goes into the tank from the bottom. There is also an overflow tube for the overflow tank ;-) that comes out the back side and is around 1 1/2 inches from the top. That tube is open to the ground, but has never 'puked'. Even driving at high elevation (7900 feet) in 98 degree heat.
What's not in the pic is the sheet metal heat shield that I put over the exhaust pipe so the radiant heat would not affect the overflow tank. That was added later based on a hunch, not clear evidence that it was needed.
A "puke" bottle can be made out of most anything. You still have to periodically check coolant levels and refill as needed. You fill the radiator with enough coolant to cover the core plus a little bit more. As the coolant heats up and expands it fills the tank. If you add too much, it comes out the overflow pipe while you are driving.
The original coolant overflow option has a tank (picture) where the coolant is pulled back into the radiator, after the engine is shut off and the radiator cools down. A gasket was added between the radiator neck and the original cap to keep the system from leaking vacuum. This is similar to what is used on today's cars and trucks except the coolant system is pressurized and the radiator cap has two valves.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
The vent is the tank connection that says System Overflow in the diagram. The original tank may say "outlet". The instruction says connect the 20 inch small diameter hose to the outlet/overflow. The other end of the hose simply hangs down with no connection (open to atmosphere).
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
The vent is the tank connection that says System Overflow in the diagram. The original tank may say "outlet". The instruction says connect the 20 inch small diameter hose to the outlet/overflow. The other end of the hose simply hangs down with no connection (open to atmosphere).
Yep...got it.
Just trying to understand the physics of I’m engineering my own tank.
