The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine oil advice

Hi All,

I'm relatively new to this. I have a 1950 Chevy 3800 with the 216 6 cyl. It was purchased from an estate so there is no prior knowledge of the previous owner's maintenance, other than he was purportedly a "mechanic" and owned the truck for nearly 40 years. I want to change the oil in it but I was wondering what I should use since I have no idea what is currently in the engine. I've read about being cautious with detergent oils in old engines.

My hunch is that the oil currently in it is a modern detergent oil since I can peer into the top of the engine via the oil fill hole, and it appears to be clean. I don't see any black sludge like we used to in the old days with the non detergent oils and mileage.

Also, should I use a straight weight or multi viscosity oil?

Thanks for any and all advice.

ChuckA Iuse 5w30 with zinc.

Chuck A well in louisiana you could use 15w40 has the zinc in it,kinda thick for me when it gets cold here.

Hey, I use 15W40 year round in my diesel here in Alaska. Not sure what I'll use in my 'Bolt, but it's a contender.

I use straight 30 weight Valvoline VR-1. Has zinc and the 30 weight is good in hot weather...which in Gretna and Dallas is a constant. Welcome to the forum.

If your air temperature falls below freezing, the 1st or pre-W number should be no higher than the original factory recco, which IIRC is 20.
High 1st number slows cold cranking and delays getting oil to the last component in the blok.

Gretna, LA or Gretna, NE?

klhansen In Alaska don't you all use block heaters?? Here in the cold OTR truckers use 15-40 works fine with heater. I use 5w30 with zinc additive no heat on outdoor engines.

JonG Can't seem to locate vr-1 30w around here it's 20w50 will have to look around again. Don't change very often anyway.

I’ve wondered about 5w-____ oils in a bolt. Thought maybe the cold number might be a little on the thin side but I guess that only matters for the first few minutes of running anyway.

I assume you are getting along OK with it?

These engines were built with tolerances where 30 weight oil was recommended in the summer and thinner in the winter. IMHO 5 weight oil is too thin. Keep in mind any modern oil provides better lubrication that 1950 oil. A lot of folks use 10W30 with great success. I use 15W40 year around in my 38 and 53. Personally I would never use non detergent oil in any engine at any time.

If you use 5W-anything, you'd better stock up on spare engines!
Jerry

NAPA carries it or Amazon does also. The last I bought was on Amazon. I don't change all that often either.

JW51 On engine oil have used 5w30 quite a while,got a little concerned about zinc so just use the additive.I asked Ed Iskendarian about it he recommends the additive and carries it,most of his cams would be high spring pressures for racing. GM used to provide EOS engine oil supplement for new cam break=in.

Ed Iskenderian was born in 1921, which would make him 100 years old. Is he even still alive?
Jerry

Tiny Well I guess south kansas is just as nasty as illinois in winter ,I do use some 10 w30 in a 27 horse kohler and a 25 horse briggs. My other engines are mostly old and older start and run ride and drive on LPG.Maybe it's the lack of sludge in them,lost a cam about 20 yrs back to anti-freeze.

Hotrod I went to visit Ed about 3 or 4 yrs ago he gave me aguided touir of the whole place,fixed me up with a signed copy of his new (then) book and was in general an a-1 host !!

ChuckA I saw you mentioned non-detergent oils,you know that is now air compressor oil-so it wont foam.

Don't know if he's working, but he's 99 and still with us.

JW51 GM tells you to use 5w30 in their light duty trucks,it's on the fill cap. Using 30w cut with a quart of kerosene in the cold seems like asking for it. (that is in the big service manuel) Now I don't suffer with sludge in my straight propane burners ,5 of those, 216,48-235,3-late 235's so to answer your question yes getting along fine since oh 82. If 5w30 was even available then.

JonG MY local NAPA can order in vr-1 in 30w it is over 100$ for 12 quarts (gotta take a carton) so not gonna happen here !!

J

Jw51 Have a 327 with a 30-30 cam that is 50 yrs old still wraps like it should.

VR-1 Racing 30 here. Available at most local FLAPS around here. I would pay $100 for 12 quarts if needed.

JW51 replied earlier,probably show-up now.

cmayna Here in a changing climate I try for a year round oil. My straight propane burners dont need an oil change very often,same on filters. You know a light little 3100 doesn't have to have heavy duty oil to get downtown. Now if you were loaded headed up the Rockies to flagstaff in summer it would be different !!

Nebraska

Sounds like 10w-30 would be a good fit here in Nebraska, although I won't be driving it much if at all in winter. My main concern is in the off chance that the previous owner used non detergent oils, I could run into trouble switching e.g oil consumption etc. I doubt non detergent oil was used in it based on how clean the inside of the engine appears to be.

Thanks for the input guys.

In my opinion 15-40 is a much better choice than 10-30. You might find your oil pressure a little low with 10-30.

Oil pressure is more function of bearing clearance, oil pump volume, and relief valve setting than the viscosity of the oil. As a general rule of thumb, heavier "low" number oils provide better cushioning between moving parts than water-thin ones, especially on bearings with a little wear and wider clearances.
Jerry

panic What is recco?

JW51 Yes getting along fine,just got back from coffee in my 51 6400 tractor.

JW51 yes.

JW51 Well for my 3rd try ...yes 5w30 working fine for me !!

Interesting, thanks.

JW51 Your comment about the first few minutes of running,I thought that is why uou put in zinc,to help protct cam lobes till lubrication gets there

Someone in an older thread suggested 30 weight diesel oil as it contains zinc. I have be using Shell T1 diesel oil for a couple of years, no trouble. I do not drive it in the winter, Minnesota!