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| | | | Joined: Mar 2020 Posts: 87 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2020 Posts: 87 | Hello, I'm restoring my 1950 Chevy Pickup. I have removed everything I can in order to strip rust, epoxy primer, and top coat as appropriate.
My question, what do I use for the areas I can't reach? The cab corners are a good example. I can't get down there to remove the rust. Not only that put putting a coat of anything in there will be challenging.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,441 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,441 | You can use a hand pump up sprayer (garden sprayer) and fill it with Evap-O-Rust. The wand will allow you to reach into most nooks and crannies. Good luck.
Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
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USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | Depends on how bad the rust is. As Martin says, there are products to encapsulate it or change it's ability to spread. Those usually require the loose rust to be scraped/wire wheeled, etc.
If it is rot out rust, you must cut out whatever you have to cut out. That's what patch panels are for.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 2,328 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 2,328 | Should have a little room if you take the back of the seat out .products like rust mort are suppose to neutralize the rust and are like water so they can be sprayed . | | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 2,328 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 2,328 | That is if it is not rot like bartamos explained | | | | | Joined: Mar 2020 Posts: 87 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2020 Posts: 87 | Thanks for the input guys. I'll clean up what I can, and apply one of those products. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 2,198 Insomniac | | Insomniac Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 2,198 | We used to have a company here that had a huge dip tank. They could take the whole cab and frame and submerse it in some sort of chemical that removed everything (grease, paint, rust), ready for epoxy primer. I don't see them around anymore - probably closed due to environmental regulations.
Gord 🇨🇦
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1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 2,328 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 2,328 | I tried a product similar to evapo rust works ok but would take a lot to do big pieces ,it also is environment friendly but only takes so much off then needs to be replaced .I guess you could plug up the drain hole in cab corner and pour it in then drain out after it does it’s work .They also have a gel that might work as well . | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,113 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,113 | Evaporust does have a gel, but I haven't had good success when I tried it. It has to stay moist to work and then needs to be rinsed off.
Like bartamos said, cut out the rotted stuff that has to be replaced, then deal with the rest. My solution was to get the cab sandblasted. Even that doesn't get to all the nooks and crannies. You do the best you can with whatever you have available.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,296 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,296 | Pressure washer to clean the areas of loose rusr and dirt, then spray the areas with Ospho. After 24 hours, hit it again with the pressure washer to remove the white crusty residue which is a byproduct of the conversion of iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate (inert coating which is now rust free). Let ti dry and paint it if you can get it in there. If you can't, don't obsess about it.
You are trying to slow the rust process down, not eliminate it for 40 years.
Last edited by 52Carl; 06/17/2021 5:01 AM.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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