Can these motors be rebuilt and rewound for 12v? All motors replacement that I have seen online so far have the leads coming out the side end of the motor. The leads need to come from more to the middle of the motor. The replace motors I’ve looked at are from Napa or Autozone. Not sure if the motors offered by The Truck Shop or Chevys of the 40’s offers the correct motor. They are pricer. $25 vs $89.
Darren Current Project - 1950 3100 5 Window with a rebuilt 216 and 3 speed trans
You can do that, but it would be much easier to just use a voltage reducer (think diode) from 12v to 6v. Much has been written about that here already. Come to think of it, I believe I might have a 12v motor that would work there. It is in the attic, though. I'll try to remember to look before it gets too hot up there some morning.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Jon, I found a 12 v motor that will fit inside the old case and no one would every suspect it. The bolt pattern is just slightly narrower, but with a small washer and the correct not, you would never be able to tell. No need to go digging around in the attic, although I have to wonder what else in up there. Cheers!
Darren Current Project - 1950 3100 5 Window with a rebuilt 216 and 3 speed trans
The formula is: double the number of turns of wire and use smaller wire. As I recall you double the number of turns and divide the diameter of the original wire by the square root of 2 (1.1414). You might want to check me on that. I'm sure the formula is out there. Doing that will double the resistance per inch (or per foot or per any other length measurement you choose). And that's what you have to do to double the electromagnetic field. If you think about this for a second, the overall volume of wire ought to remain the same, so it will fit. But...as I said before...using a 12v to 6v voltage reducer should be easier. That way, 12v will be provided to the reducer, half of it will be "gone" and the motor will only see 6v.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Sounds good. You can keep your old armature and rewind it at your leisure if you wish. Will give you time to measure and locate the right size of wire.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
When I converted from 6V to 12V I did and extensive search to find a fan motor that would drop in with minimum/no changes. This is what I found. You can order a replacement 12v motor from AutoZone. Below is a link to the replacement motor. They cost about $32. If memory serves me the shaft might be slightly longer but it fit with no modifications needed.
Make sure you do not reverse the wires. This motor is reversible by switching the polarity when you hook it up.
I also just noticed I have the only review posted for this motor on the AutoZone site.
I upgraded my 54 Chevy truck to 12v and needed a replacement motor for the heater. This was a perfect match to fit the original squirrel cage and bolt pattern. It also has a reversible motor that allows you t configure the rotation based on the design of your fan. It also support my two speed fan speed switch. I have been running the fan for 2 years and works great.
I think I am going to go with the Deve's Tech solution and insert the VDO PM354 inside my existing housing.
This is a pretty slick replacement/conversion. I completed mine about five years ago and it's working flawlessly. The picture (lower left) shows the completed 12V motor neatly nested in the the 6V motor housing. Let me know if you have any questions.
HandyAndy, Thanks for the post. I did the same thing with great results. A very slick trick. Is that a new hinge I seen in the left hand corner of the picture. I'm just wondering how to best approach the hood hinges. I think mine are in good shape, but that is what I thought about my door hinges until I rebuilt them and discovered what a difference a rebuilt door hinge makes.
Darren Current Project - 1950 3100 5 Window with a rebuilt 216 and 3 speed trans
No, the hinges and springs are what came with the truck. I used a little elbow grease on them to clean them up. Generally, the original hardware is better than anything you'll buy today. If yours are reasonably tight and without much wear, I'd use them. If not, place an ad in the 'Truck Parts Wanted' forum. There's probably a lot of them laying around out there some where.......
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
