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| | | | Joined: May 2011 Posts: 194 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2011 Posts: 194 | Wanting to replace the King Pins on my 1950 Chevy 3800 series truck. I know the new bushings in the spindles should be reamed for alignment after there installed. I think the size on these is .923 that the bushings need to be reamed too. Are there reamers (of that size) available to do this? Where would someone get one? Thanks in advance!
Tom | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy 3800GUY, both holes need to be reamed in the same plane, there were special long reamers for this job which also had a centering collet. If you could find one of these tools I think it would be very expensive. I think you should take your spindles to a machine shop along with your king pin and have them ream to fit, hope that helps. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | Yes, have them done at a machine shop, usually the automotive type. They may either ream them or hone them, but the important part is both bushings/bores share the same centerline, so using a long hone or a piloted reamer. Otherwise adjustable or fixed reamers are available if you really want to do it yourself. look at "Long Pilot Adjustable Blade Reamers" or "Spiral King Bolt Reamers" This link https://www.chadwickreamers.com/products.php | | | | | Joined: May 2011 Posts: 194 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2011 Posts: 194 | Thanks for the advice, and yes your probably right to have a shop do the work. I have tackled many projects on this truck over the years but this one might be worth the expense to have it done right. Would the axel need to go to the shop also to make sure everything fit together properly? I also have a 1946 3/4 ton Chevy which need new pins worse than the 1950, I think they might be the same size pins in both trucks. Maybe the shop would do them both for a little better price Ha Ha. I will keep the link you supplied for future reference.
Thanks,
Tom | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | If the axle location is not hogged out(technical term) no need to take the axle. Just the new king pins and the spindle.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | If you can't easily remove the old kingpins then best to remove the whole axle and have it pressed apart. (or use a portable kingpin press in place if you have one) Swinging a big sledge hammer trying to remove kingpins can bend the axle.
If the new pins fit nice and snug in the axle beam there is generally no machine work necessary, if not then you're looking at oversize kingpins and the axle needs to be reamed or honed also. They should be a snug fit, should not wobble at all, and should not fall out. Should need a firm push of you palm or a rubber mallet to get a new kingpin in or out of the axle. | | |
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