The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Weight of Bare 1948 Cab

I hope this post is in the correct forum. I almost put it into “The Tool Chest" forum.

I would like to build a safe-to-use cab rotisserie for easy access to all sides of the cab. I've seen some great designs on this forum that will inspire my own rotisserie design.

Assuming no doors, tank, seat, glass, and an empty dash, what is your best guess for the approximate weight of a bare 48 AD cab?

I've seen videos where four moderately fit men can pick up and carry a bare cab to set it onto a frame.

Here is my train of thought so far:

If I guess about 100 pounds on each corner, that would make the bare cab something close to 400 pounds. Assuming that I might also be working inside the cab with a collection of tools, I would add another 250 pounds capacity to the design. Of course, I would add a way to lock the rotisserie into position. That adds up to 650 pounds. I would multiply that by 1.5 for extra safety, bringing the true weight capacity of the rotisserie to +/- 975 pounds.

Am I missing anything?

Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

David

David, you're pretty much right on the weight capacity. When we took my cab off the rotisserie, it took 3 guys (couldn't use my engine hoist because of interference with my cab dolly (poor planning on my part there).
Here is a shot of my rotisserie that I built out of two engine stands. I went with brackets at the doors for access to the floor for repair.
I have been inside the cab while mounted on the rotisserie without issues and I'm a bit over 250.

Kevin,

Thanks for the reply. Your rotisserie is one of the designs that inspired me to make my own. I especially like how you mounted to the hinge and door striker mounting locations. Thanks also for sharing your idea of how you would make it again with the ability to get an engine hoist under the cab while on the rotisserie. I wouldn't have thought about that if you hadn't mentioned it.

David

Have you put any thought into accomplishing this. Here is a couple thoughts:

• Narrowed stance (one side) with removable outriggers.
• Raise it sufficently so the engine lift will slide underneath.

Phil, getting the hoist hooked up to the cab on the rotisserie wasn't an issue. It was because of my cheapo cab dolly design which was just a pallet with casters and some blocks to fit where the cab supports are under the floor. If I had raised (lowered?) the caster mounts, then I could have slid the engine hoist underneath quite easily. I may have to modify it, as the cab is too dang low to the floor for painting, etc. I hate bending over (seems that it's getting harder to do every day ).

Nice job Kevin. Lots of folks use two engine stands as there basic structure and add mounting for the particular vehicle. Or they copy that theme. Two engine stands give you an automatic 2000 lb to 4000 lb capacity. This takes half of the guess work out of the calculation.
For a cab, you can borrow bathroom scales and put one on each corner. Then the total calculation has no guesses. No safety factor.

Poor Redneck hillbilly, lazy way I avoid having to build an AD cab rotisserie.
I bolt a pair of 8' 2x4s to the firewall through existing firewall holes so that the bottom of the 2x4s touch the floor. Two guys can then pull the cab over and lay it down so that you can get to the bottom and the roof of the cab. The cab then lays on the 2x4s. I can put it back in the upright position by myself. Leverage is a powerful thing.
What else does a guy need a rotisserie for?

Bartamos,

You are right. Even two of the lightest duty engine stands would be more than double what I need for weight capacity. I think I would widen the wheel placement on the back of each engine stand to give it a wider footprint on each side. I could increase the height of the stand at the same time. Might even use a larger diameter caster so it rolls easier on rough surfaces.

I love this place! You guys all rock.

David

Probably OK but any modification voids warranty and changes the geometry, which changes the tested strength. The DIY welding is also subject to failure.
I would consider:...... NOT adding height. Not doing any welding. Adding "outrigger" support by bolting. Not changing the wheel design in any way.

I actually would consider rolling over, on the floor, in some fashion, as Carl says. This method could cause sheet metal damage and may need a few inside the cab supports to maintain anti racking.

I do not know the reason for you wanting a rotisserie.
I have seen Asian VW bus restorers use a large steel loop fastened to each end/near each end of the vehicle. They just roll it over.

Made from rectangular tubing. 6-10 sided. Hexagon, octagon, decagon or round.

Bartamos,

There is someone on this forum that built a loop type cab fixture that would roll to a flat spot in the loop. I want to say this person is in the UK, but my memory isn't what it used to be...

After thinking more about this, I think I will just fabricate from scratch a cab rotisserie. My reason for making a rotisserie is because my project is moving VERY slowly, and having the cab off the floor and on wheels would be more convenient for me.

I've been fabricating and welding critical structures for 40+ years. Still, I appreciate you looking out for me.

Whatever I build, I will share it on this forum.

David

Looks like you are good to go. Here are a few for others that may be following the post. Carl's is the last one. That is the cheapest and easiest for a one time user.

I think you are giving yourself a large safety margin on cab weight but that's good. Here is one that is complete except for one seat cushion. Has doors, glass, steering column with gear box, gauges, heater, gas tank, pretty much everything. 650#s.

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/ft5MsypF/cab-weight-001.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/svs0SKBp/cab-weight-003.jpg[/img]