The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Brake Lines Anyone? 1954 3604 Chevy Truck

Well, I ordered a complete brake line set from a vendor and low and behold they are not even close. Used their "compatible vehicle " tool and yeah, it showed a match, but no it doesn't. So here's my confusion after doing some research. The Factory Assembly Manual for 1947- 1954 details the brake line part numbers for the 3600 Left Drive in Section 5 , and does not reference different part numbers for the model years. With this in mind, why would the vendors list individual "kits" for the different model years. Does anyone know where the brake line part numbers might be listed other than the Assembly Manual? I didn't find any information on them by using the GM parts Wiki.

Also an interesting find in the shop manual is that 3100 series trucks have 3/16 OD Brake tubes except the cross over from the master cylinder to the junction block on the passenger frame rail which is 1/4 " OD tube. The 3600 and up trucks use only 1/4" OD tube.

Any suggestions ladies and gentlemen?

I'm planning on building my own brake lines. I ordered a 25' roll of 3/16" brake tubing for most and will buy a short section of 1/4" for the master cylinder to division block piece.
Here's some info for you Brake system illustration.
Also this and the following pages.

I've had really good luck purchasing from O'Reilly's pre made lines. The last one I had to purchase was the one on the passenger side (the first of the 2 piece line heading back to the rear). It was something like $8 and it fit/worked fine. Very easy to shape and work, already double flared with new fittings. They have 1/4 inch line as well. These come in different lengths and diameters.

I have found that copper nickel brake line is FAR easier to work with, if you are buying bulk and bending your own. easy to bend form, no corrosion to speak of. You just have to have the skill to flare the ends.

Jon

I couldn’t agree with you more! I used CU-NI for all of the lines I have replaced so far and it bends beautifully but if you don’t have one of the pro flaring kits, that cost hundreds of dollars, you have to practice your flares. The biggest thing is to keep the flaring tool centered on the anvil. Check it just after contact and before you tighten it down. If its not centered, the flare will be lopsided and will not seal properly. Once I realized my mistake, my flares came out nearly perfect.

Here is the flaring tool I use. It’s an Imperial.

I hope you are making double flares and not just single flares (low pressure for plumbing)...you didn't show the adaptor dies.

These double flare tools are cheap and work fine for the hobbyist...just take your time and practice once or twice and you'll be a pro!

https://www.amazon.com/Wostore-Doub...Y2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Mike B

Definitely double flares. I only showed the style I have (from the internet) not the complete set. My flaring kit is is from the 70’s and I do have the anvils to complete the double flare.

Here is a picture of what my kit looks like.

Thanks everyone. Ron (me) is going to be learning a new skill.

These days, I try to stick to 37 degree.

If you do enough brake lines, the hydraulic, or even the long handled machine, is well worth it. Eastwood sells a decently priced version.