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#1410532 05/19/2021 10:32 PM
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I have a '54 235 saginaw 4 speed and a chevy 12 bolt with 3.55. bought the truck this way but knew I wanted to change eventually and eventually has arrived.

I was able to buy an 84 s10 T5 for $250 in great condition so I can get an overdrive gear(have a 45 mile trip 3-4 times a month).

The condition of the rear seems fine but it is 6 lug and and I have a Heidts mustang II drop in the front and it is 5 lug. The suspension is not in great shape so I was thinking of changing to a 91-2001 explorer 3.73 posi with disks. Thoughts? problems?

I'm not going 4 link but any recommended suspension kits would also be appreciated.

Note from Moderator: Buying and selling outside the Swap Meet Forum is not allowed.

Last edited by Justhorsenround; 05/19/2021 10:35 PM. Reason: Removed offer to sell.
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Unconventional Thinker
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I'd recommend a lower gear with an overdrive, the 3.55 is a great highway gear as it is. I bet with the 4 speed it is sluggish off the line, but cruise is just fine, as it is 70 mph is around 2,600-2,700 rpms with 3.55 depending on tire size. 3.73 is better, but the rpms will be a bit low at cruising speed in overdrive. Although, Texas cruising speed is 80 and higher, so you should be good. If you could find a 4.10 or 4.11 geared rear that would be better. Nothing wrong with improved braking, so disc all the way around isn't bad. I don't have any recommendations on suspension kits.


Shane

Shane's Toys...
2007 Forester XT Limited (2nd Owner)
1991 Cherokee Laredo (2nd Owner)
1981 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside 8,600 Camper Special (3rd Owner)
1965 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside (3rd Owner)
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'Bolter
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If (hopefully) your T5 has the original aluminum tag with the trans number, you need to check the number on several sites to see what the gear ratios are. If it has the .86 5th gear and 4.03 1st gear, you Might, be OK with the 3.55s. It's going to depend on tire diameter, terrain, and how use your truck. I'd install the T5 and see how it works out. If overall gearing is higher than you like, you can always shift down to 4th.

Good Luck,

RonR


RonR


1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1964 CJ5
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You are still moderated and have to do more posting before you are allowed to post pictures.
I wish exceptions could be made.

I would greatly appreciate seeing pictures of the shifter (underneath at transmission), linkage and shift stick on your Saginaw transmission.
This is one of the how-to topics that comes up in this forum.

The more cost effective solution may be to convert your front rotors to 6 lug.


"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
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The MII flanges on the hub can't take a 5.5" six lug pattern. If adapters are used make sure the wheel position if not too wide and use STEEL adapters. With steel you won't have to periodically re-torque the nuts on the adapter. The six lug rears can be re-drilled to match the front. You will need to plug and re-drill one of the existing six lug holes and sometimes, not often, turn down the OD of the axle flange to fit the mounting face of certain wheels. Brake drums will also have to be re-drilled but all this eliminates the need for an adapter.


Evan
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Bolter
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Moderated members can post photos following the instructions in the left margin of every page. FYI


Martin
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“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
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Evan, thanks for that info. It's something I've never researched. Keeping mine original.
Just curious, would this work? I know money-wise this would be something you would buy upfront with the MII kit.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/0911clt-cpp-mustang-ii-six-lug-brake-kit-install/
_ _ _ _

Bottom of page. Left margin. Plain as day. Thanks.

Stoveboltjoe would you send us a few pictures please?

Last edited by buoymaker; 05/20/2021 3:24 PM.

"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
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Thanks for the input everybody

DoubleDingo: The t5 is .76 for 5th gear and 4.00 for 1st according to the tags. I found a 3.73 posi around the corner for $250 so leaning toward that vs hub swaps.

buoymaker I’ll take pictures of the Saginaw this weekend and try to post.

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'Bolter
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If there's a choice I prefer the lowest number O/D. My Toyota 4-speed auto is .705:1 high gear. A shift out of 3rd @ 4,000 drops the RPM to 2,820, and you can feel the engine relax.

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Stoveboltjoe,
I have a 0.76 OD T5 in my 1963 C10 and it loves the 3.73 rear. Great driver, even with a 230ci engine.

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Thanks lugnutz. I just bookmarked your swap site. Are you also running the explorer rear?

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We are looking for a 6 lug rear with 373 gears. our T5 has 403 1st but .76 th, the current rear is 342--Thanks Bill [email protected] or 575 779 2188

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Originally Posted by panic
If there's a choice I prefer the lowest number O/D. My Toyota 4-speed auto is .705:1 high gear. A shift out of 3rd @ 4,000 drops the RPM to 2,820, and you can feel the engine relax.

Dang near identical to the borg warner overdrive. 30% reduction. What is 0.05% amongst friends.


Shane

Shane's Toys...
2007 Forester XT Limited (2nd Owner)
1991 Cherokee Laredo (2nd Owner)
1981 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside 8,600 Camper Special (3rd Owner)
1965 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside (3rd Owner)
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 491
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Unconventional Thinker
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StoveboltJoe, I think you'll be happy, and your engine will be happy with 3.73s


Shane

Shane's Toys...
2007 Forester XT Limited (2nd Owner)
1991 Cherokee Laredo (2nd Owner)
1981 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside 8,600 Camper Special (3rd Owner)
1965 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside (3rd Owner)
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,660
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Curmudgeon
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Pictures of the Saginaw that you have?


"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."

Moderated by  Fibonachu, KCMongo 

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