The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Rochester 2G on a 292

A few unbiased words about the underdog $90 HF 2.5 liter ultrasonic cleaner, to clean an automobile carburetor.

* It's primarily a small-parts cleaner so a 1 maybe 2 barrel carburetor is really pushing the upper limits of what it is designed for.
* Outer shell is plastic (not commercial grade construction).
* The transducer is small and not very powerful.
* The tank inside is small.
* Only one operating frequency.
* Thermostat protected from overheating.
* Has a timer (8 minutes maximum) to limit the length of usage (so that it doesn't overheat).
* Each carburetor section may require 3 to 4 8-minute cleaning cycles. More if required.
* Can only do one major carburetor section at a time and sometimes you have to rotate the part so the other side can be cleaned.

It is an agonizingly slow, one carburetor per day, takes all day, cleaner but it works decently.

Shane, I would measure the largest parts of your Rochester 2G, to make sure it would fit into the tank, before buying any ultrasonic cleaner.

Thank you buoymaker. I won't be using a muriatic acid solution, or the HF ultrasonic cleaner. I will go with what I already have on hand, and that is my subpar berrymans parts dip/carb cleaner. It is a few years old, so maybe it has a better cleaning power than the newer stuff does. Although I doubt it does...lol...

Shane - I was not joking when I posted about the 3 pound coffee can (metal only ).

Place the carb in the can, fill with water to cover the carb, add a healthy dose of Dawn dishwater soap. Boil!

The roiling action of the boil tends to flake off the dirt and grease, and the dawn will absorb it. May need to do multiple time, but it does work.

Jon.

Old crock pots with a mild degreaser and a couple hours of warm soaking will clean carburetors. I bought a large crock pot at the goodwill store for $5.00, and use Simple Green and water. If the customer wants it all one color, I will soda blast the out side for a uniform finish.

If you are eager to buy jets, go one size bigger then stock 283's used, at least it won't run lean while breaking it in. The carburetor doesn't know what intake or what engine its on, it's looking for air velocity. Your carburetor is calibrated for a 283, the 292 is not that far off from 283 and will work as it is.

You mean I spent $90 when I could have used a coffee can or a crock pot?

"The carburetor doesn't know what intake or what engine its on, it's looking for air velocity. Your carburetor is calibrated for a 283, the 292 is not that far off from 283"
No.
I'd explain it.
But I already did...

Aw come on panic, not wasting your time. You edited out the info you shared from your early reply, luckily I quoted it so the thread still has it.

If the head flows 80 cfm more than stock, and the engine breathes way better than it did rolling off the assembly line, is that not increased air velocity? I haven't looked at the 2bbl intake on the 283, but I have no reason to question it is a dual plane. This Aussie manifold having the waffle pattern to keep fuel droplets under the carb, and not sticking to the walls of the intake, along with me adding heat under the carb, won't the 2G perform well with this improved engine? On Inliners, people have reported better performance with a 2G on a 292.

Not trying to stir the pot, just trying to understand the negative-sounding posts. I posted this in the HiPo area because this 292 is no longer a stock 292, but it will never be raced, it will be a highway cruiser, a dump runner, a heavy hauler, etc. It's duties only expanded to highway cruiser, the main purpose of this 292 will still be exercised, just not with a monojet.

More to think about.

Attached is a picture of an 2 barrel intake manifold that GMC made for their 302 engine with big port heads. The intake ports are bigger but the runners (I call it volume) is/are not that much bigger than the stock 230/250/292 manifold with a single barrel carburetor. Why didn't GMC have a manifold design like Clifford or Aussie?

For the intake design, there is a term of "precharge" and I take it that there is a critical point where the best and correct amount of vaporized fuel is desired to be available at an optimum timing of the cylinder piston position, intake and exhaust valve timing and engine RPM. Likewise there is an optimum of head exhaust port size, exhaust manifold port size and exhaust pipe diameter to get the optimum "scavenging" to help move the exhaust out faster.

I like that intake. I wish I knew about all of these old stock items before buying new stuff.

I did do tons of research before buying each part. The cam for improved low-end torque and mid-range, not high revs. The exhaust will definitely be a scavenging-type of exhaust. Yes, it will be dual, but will have a cross-over/balance pipe, and dump into single so the exhaust pulses will scavenge and help each pulse flow out the tailpipe.

I will either have a really great running engine that will do exactly what I wanted from it, or I will have a boat anchor. Being optimistic and realistic by heart, I am going with the former.

I found a photo of an inline six with the same exhaust manifolds I'm going to use, as well as the Aussie intake. Same color I'm painting the engine, too. I'm glad I found this photo, as it eased my concerns about this setup not clearing the master cylinder.

Let me thank each one of you for your replies. I'll report back after I get everything done. It'll be a while, but you'll know how it turns out.

All that effort and expense is sort of wasted on a siamesed-port head. Have you considered beaning up a Ford 300 six and putting a padlock on the hood so nobody will know you've gone over to the dark side?
LOL!
Jerry

Classic! Why not, people install sacrilegious Small Block Chevy's into Ford's all the time, and now the LS is being swapped in the Ford's...lol... If I went the 300 route, which I won't because Ford engines were not a factory option in the Chevy's and I already have three-Chevy truck's-worth of parts on hand, nobody would ever know because I already have the hood cabled and locked. More so to keep the homeless from stealing my battery, as they have proven they will without the lock down in place.

A 12 port head would be better, but expensive from what I've read, and definitely not in my plans or budget.

I see it as work well-spent to do the improvements on the front end of the project, as I convert the truck over to L6 from V8, as opposed to the tail-end, where I have to leave the truck out of commission for a long time to do those improvements. This way it's down a shorter amount of time to complete the swap/conversion, and then the fine-tuning begins and the truck is back on the road with a fresh engine and newish drive train. I'm excited for this transformation, it's going to be good, and the truck will be much improved all across the board.

I considered a 2G on my 235. I first started out with Fitech fuel injection. Very expensive lesson learned. I use a clifford intake, which is very similar to your aussie but it has heat. It was a tossup between a 2G and a 350 cfm holley 2 barrel. I went with the Holley since I already had it set up for the holley base and didn't want to make another adapter. I would start out with the stock jets and tune from there. Learn how to read spark plugs and have a good ignition system!

What was wrong with the FiTech? I saw a video where a guy put one on his stock Chevy pickup with the 292, and it ran quite nicely. Although I could see it being pretty oversized for a 235.

Back to back ECU failures caused me to lose faith in it. It ran like a dream and I really liked it. Every time it went in to closed loop learning, it would try to lean out for efficiency. A Stovebolt does not like lean. When I set the AFR for 12-12.5 it was happy, but the FITech wanted to run 14.

Sludgeburner, when I was looking at carburetors to go on the Aussie Intake, it was the Holley 750 that I was then going to install the 12Bolt three barrel kit into, thus, making it a 562CFM carb. It runs on a single primary because the other gets blocked-off, and when WOT is needed the vacuum secondaries open as much as is needed. Holley was sold out of the one's I was looking at, and I browsed around their website and saw they have both small base and large base Sniper 2G EFI kits. I considered going with the Sniper 2G. Then I thought, wait a minute, I have a 2G in my possession, why not run it. So my plans changed. Then upon looking more closely at my 2G, it doesn't appear to be a good candidate for a rebuild, so I bought one from Carb Exchange in El Monte. Since my truck is still a v8, and I suspect it is a 305 because it is a dog, and I have a 2G intake in my possession, I am going to install the 2G on the current engine while I get the 292 ready. That way I'll know if the 2G, which is sitting at the post office right now, is a good unit, and I can tweak it as needed for the v8, but it should run just fine as-is on the v8. Then when the 292 is ready to go in, I will spray cleaner in the bowl, and other areas inside to try to minimize any bad juju happening from the ethanol gas drying up while get everything converted over for the 292, then it's go time. I will have most everything fabbed-up before the engine swap.

All of that, to say, I do plan on using the stock jets first when it is installed on the 292. And then become a spark plug reader and adjust the 2G from the spark plugs.

I am also glad Tronman asked about the FiTech, that way we get some other input on different air/fuel delivery systems, whether good or bad.

I failed to mention, Aussie does have a heat box that goes under the carb area. I bought one, so I will have heat, too. Heat is needed, as it does get cold here and other areas I take the truck.