The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
9 - 11 Memorials

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
3 members (Hotrod Lincoln, Otto Skorzeny, Peggy M), 98 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,026
Posts1,055,409
Members48,422
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1409097 05/08/2021 4:27 PM
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 87
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 87
Hi all,

First, I apologize if this is the wrong place to post this. It looked like the best place.

I need to replace the ball on the drag link for my 1950 Chevy pickup, 3100. The ball is very flattened out. I'm guessing I can either grind out the back and use a press to push the ball out. Or do I need to press the other direction?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Mike
Attachments
Drag Link Pic.jpg (227.6 KB, 114 downloads)

Joined: May 2016
Posts: 268
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 268
Grind off the back opposite side from ball. And either press out or use a bfh and a drift to beat it out. John


1949 gmc 1-ton
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,002
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,002
The holes the balls are pressed into have a chamfer on both sides, so drilling a shallow hole just smaller than the shank diameter helps give that material that's been swaged into the chamfer somewhere to go and makes it easier to push the shank out. You can push them out either way, either grinding the back side flush or cut the ball off and grind that side flush. The drill your hole and use your press or BFH. I used a ball joint press that I have with a bolt smaller than the hole I drilled as a pushing tool. The BFH method can get a bit hairy if your impact is not dead on. Mine was about the same as yours, looking like a football if you look at the end of the ball.
I pressed the new ball in place, then heated the opposite end and peened it back into the chamfer with a big ball peen hammer. Or you can run a weld bead around it. There are also bolt-in replacement balls, with thread and nut on the back side.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 87
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 87
Thanks guys, got them out. Now waiting for the new ones to come in the mail.

Mike

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,748
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Online: Content
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,748
Just a minor nitpick- - - - -the part in your picture with the ball is the Pitman arm. The drag link is the rod that attaches to it. Once you get the new ball installed, be sure to get a rebuild kit for the drag link with new semi-circular pieces that clamp over the ball, and the spring that holds them tight against it. Although the plug in the end looks like a big straight-slot screw, there's a special tool called a "drag link socket" (Thanks, Captain Obvious!) that's the right tool to use.
Have fun!
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,002
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,002
Well, it is the ball that goes in the drag link, therefore could be called the "drag link ball", even though it is on the pitman arm. wink
I had to go buy one of those "drag link sockets" to deal with mine. There's one in the socket set down at my mom's place in California, but it wasn't readily available. I tried to get my sister to look for it, but she couldn't quite get what I was trying to describe. ohwell
It took some heat to get those drag link plugs out. But everything is rebuilt on mine now.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.

Moderated by  Dusty53, SWEET 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0