After a great many hrs spent trying to remove the rear seals from the drum, I wonder if there is another alternative to the Kent Moore puller J-918-A (which might as well be the Holy Grail) I adapted a regular slide hammer but that wasn't enough to get the seals out without MAJOR struggle...
I still need to do the front, so wonder if there is a modern tool out there that will save me the pain and sweat of 4 hrs! Thank you
Hy Philipj, I always use a "Ladyfoot" pry bar to remove those particular seals, just insert the "toe" between the back of the bearing and the back side of the seal and then pull the handle end in the opposite direction to that which the "toe" of the tool is pointing, easy peasy Japaneasy, hope that helps
I have struggled with those stout original style national seal metal housings as well. They are unusually strong compared to new made seal housings and hold into the hub very tightly. Removing them even with a ladyfoot is difficult as it is hard to keep the entire drum/hub assembly from moving while trying to lever out the seal.
What I found to be the holy grail with this is amazingly simple. Instead of trying to pull the seal out from the inboard side, I drive it out from the outboard side. There is about 1/4 space between the inner bearing and the seal. I made a simple "seal driver" using a short length (approximately 12-16 inches long) of heavy walled 1 1/2 inch pipe and welded a round 2 1/4 inch diameter x 3/16 inch thick plate on one end of the pipe (a large thick washer would work). For removal: 1) support the drum/hub off the floor with some 2x4 pieces so that the seal is not touching the boards or floor, 2) place the lip (washer part) of your "seal driver" against one side of the seal and strike with a 3 pound hammer, 3) repeat step #2 about 180 degrees from the last strike and hit it again, 4) smile at how easy it was to remove. Only takes two well placed strikes to remove.
Sounds like a great solution, can you post photos of this tool? Another difficult thing to remove is the large snap ring that secures the outer bearing... Is there a long enough pair of vise grips out there with a wide enough tip that will allow you to hold and remove the ring? Thank you.
I will try to take a picture tonight. As for the snap ring...I use the longest handled (read more leverage) pliers I have and do my best "Popeye" impression to squeeze the handles. Its doable, not particularly fun but doable.
Phillip J When I was about 18 worked with an old Chevy mechanic,he would take the outer brg. off the spindle put washer and nut back on then jerk the drum off bearing and seal would be hanging there unhurt and re-useable. He would let it kinda drag on the way off. Of course the washer has to be able to fit thru the race !! Learned a lot from Frank.bless him !!!
The photo of your seal driver would be great... As for the snap ring, I have not been able to remove it yet (will probably repack the bearing in place) unless I am able to find that extra long strong set of pliers...Two days later, and my hands are still sore from messing with the rear seals and that snap ring...
I will try my luck tomorrow with the front, and see if I can apply the trick suggested by Fixite 7 to remove the seals... Thank you.
Sorry for being slow with the image...life got in the way of play.
The actual size of the head on my homemade seal driver is 1/4 inch thick and 2 3/8 diameter, but it doesn't have to be exact. The only important measurements are that it can fit through the inside diameter of the bearing, and that it is thin enough to fit between the inner bearing and the seal.
I also took a picture of the pliers that I have used to remove the large snap ring. They are some ancient crusty pliers that every once in a while find a purpose. Notice the longer than normal handle length. Perhaps if you welded some "handle extensions" on a cheap set of modern pliers you could get the leverage needed to compress the snap ring. There is limited work area inside that hub.
Are your wheel bearings the Hyatt barrel style cup and cone bearings? Even though your trucks and mine are only a couple of years in age different, there seems to be a lot of technological changes in those years.
No problem at all, I completely understand, and thank you for the additional measurements...The seal pusher is quite a long and heavy contraption, though it does not look from the photo... I think I will go to an antique shop to find that odd long set of pliers for the next time... As I'm going through the job, I left that outer bearing in place and packed it by hand without a problem despite the limited space...
Regarding the bearings details, the outer is a Hyatt 11786 (Tapered Roller) The inner a barrel style bearing but I do not know the number... Do you by chance?
Lastly, as for the adjustment, after I slide the hub/drum, I rotate it several times back and fort to seat the bearing, then I play with the wheel cylinder adjuster ( get it to to barely touch) as I keep turning. Lastly, I place the spacer and nut, always turning the drum until the bearing gets tight, and then I back it off one notch or one bolt position with the aid of a red line on the tool... Would that be correct?
I don't know the particulars of your year/model hub, but your outer bearing number is the same as on my 1941 1 1/2 truck. The inner bearing assembly (cone and cup) for my truck is Hyatt KD-12051-Z, perhaps it is the same as your application.
Modern tapered bearing manufactures recommend that their bearings should not be used with the old style Hyatt barrel bearings. Timken actually puts a small warning message in the box of their new bearing assemblies. Evidently the two styles are antagonistic towards one another. Each hub should have matching bearing style for inner and outer bearing, but its okay to have tapered bearings on one side hub and Hyatt's on the other side hub.
The inner bearing for my truck is KD-12051-Z, so we have the same exact thing... I believe that I have all original style bearings in my truck, so I don't have to worry about incompatibility issues. perhaps I did not use the proper name before, bringing some confusion...
Phillip j May be wromg on this but some snap rings you have to move the race to release the snap ring--take snap ring out then drive race the other way out
