Got it running, to a refreshing spray of vintage rusty water and the dulcet tones of a wrecked water pump. Now to change water (and probably fuel) pump. Brakes are next.
Not much better than an engine coming to life after 50 years. Wow, congrats!
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Got the offending pumps off. Now to find new stuff, scrape muck off the engine, paint bits... P.O. said it wasn't running very well. No. 3 and 6 lighting hoses were crossed, both coil wires were dicey, etc... Now that the waterpump is off there are no strange noises.
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
"the dulcet tones of a wrecked water pump". I like that! My '59 had those when I first got it running. It wouldn't have occurred to me to describe it that way. Wish I had thought of it!
Maybe it’s me, but I don’t understand this statement. Can you elaborate?
Last edited by Phak1; 05/05/202112:34 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
That was going to be my guess. Hadn't heard them called that before.
That is what I was thinking too, but I also never heard them called that before.
Thanks Brian, for the education!
Last edited by Phak1; 05/06/202112:02 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Thermostat choice is dictated somewhat by climate and intended use. I live in SLC, Utah which has four seasons and 100 degree summer days. I don’t drive my truck much in the winter but do in good weather. I had a 180 deg. at first which ran too hot in summer. Now I run a 160 deg. which does not leave me wondering if it is going to boil over in traffic or leave a puddle when I park it.
I defaulted to a 180. I have heard 160s may not allow coolant to remain in the radiator long enough to effectively disipate heat. I'll see what happens. Thanks.
"Water not stay in the radiator long enough to cool..." Old wive's tale. The racers up the flow rate as much as possible to reduce hot spots within the engine. I've run with no thermostat and it never got above 140. I run mine over the mountains (5600 ft.) in the summer and found the 180 is too hot. Engine is noisier when it's hotter. 160 seems just right. I no longer drive it in the winter because the state is now using de-icer on the roads so I just leave the 160 in year round.
1951 3800 1-ton "Earning its keep from the get-go" In the DITY Gallery 1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.
"Water not stay in the radiator long enough to cool..." Old wive's tale.
A little math quickly dispels that notion. If your coolant flows slower through your radiator dissipating heat, it also flows slower through your block and heads, gaining heat. Your engine head temp is around 400 degrees, or 220 ABOVE the ideal engine coolant operating temperature of 180 degrees. Ambient air flowing through the radiator is approximately 80-100 degrees (depending on the weather), or 80 degrees LESS than the ideal engine coolant operating temperature. 220 degree gain versus 80 loss - the slower the coolant flows, the more it will heat up.