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#1406786 04/20/2021 4:37 AM
Joined: Mar 2020
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Happy Spring!

Washing Ole Red up after the winter and determined that the top cowl vent was leaking; I have a new gasket so figured I'd go ahead and replace it.

Unsurprisingly, there was some rust all the way around the sealing flange, and found a couple in the top (spot welds that were sitting on the rotten gasket).

That all went well, but the new gasket seems to thick? It's very firm as well, and having to apply enough pressure to get it to where it is, causes the adjustment to move. I'm wondering about making a gasket out of rubberized cork or some softer neoprene material? I even set it overnight with two 25 lb bags of #8 shot and a carton of .38/.357 LSWC on it (a good 75 pounds). Didn't even dent the gasket. Perhaps Vaseline might soften it?

Edit: I'll take a look again tomorrow, it occurs to me that the gasket might just need to be chamfered. The lip is sitting on top but really, it should "capture"the seal.

At any rate, some photos of the progress. It's a "driving project" so forgive the appearance.

I should add, I LOVE the look of these cowl vents, always have; and inside I LOVE having levers to throw. So I'm not electrifying it.
Attachments
cowl 1.jpg (52.89 KB, 169 downloads)
cowl 3.jpg (56.86 KB, 166 downloads)
cowl 4.jpg (58.94 KB, 167 downloads)
cowl 5.jpg (55.93 KB, 172 downloads)
Cowl 8.jpg (24.76 KB, 171 downloads)

Last edited by NorthCoast3800; 04/20/2021 4:57 AM.

1949 Chevrolet 3/4 Ton - Still Solid. Regular Driver
OT Vehicles:
1925 Hudson Brougham Super Six
1950 Chevrolet Styline (Parts)
1952 Canuck Pontiac Sedan Delivery (Well Underway)
1973 F250 4x4 Highboy
1977 F250 4x4 Lowboy
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,067
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Where did the new gasket come from? I see some vendors have two styles, original foam and molded rubber.

I don't think vaseline will do anything to soften the rubber.

Let us know how your efforts go.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by klhansen
Where did the new gasket come from? I see some vendors have two styles, original foam and molded rubber.

I don't think vaseline will do anything to soften the rubber.

Let us know how your efforts go.

Thank you sir; it's a Precision brand gasket definitely molded rubber. It fits the channel perfectly. I agree re: the Vaseline option. Tonight after work I'll pull the vent again and chamfer the outer top edges of that gasket - I bet that will solve it. Will report back.


1949 Chevrolet 3/4 Ton - Still Solid. Regular Driver
OT Vehicles:
1925 Hudson Brougham Super Six
1950 Chevrolet Styline (Parts)
1952 Canuck Pontiac Sedan Delivery (Well Underway)
1973 F250 4x4 Highboy
1977 F250 4x4 Lowboy
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,491
J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
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Please don't use Vaseline on rubber, neoprene or similar products. Vaseline will ruin these products and it will begin almost immediately. The original seal was a molded rubber labyrinth design and was very creatively made so it drained (to prevent the vent from sitting in water and rusting. If you have a simple stamped cut foam seal, it will lack any possible draining scheme and you'll get rust around the perimeter of your vent. If you don't have the rather firm labyrinth design, please keep looking. You do know you have to adjust the cowl vent after you remove it, yes? Also the molded labyrinth type has an upper side and a lower side. The one I recently replaced came from The Filling Station and fit perfectly.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
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Originally Posted by Jon G
Please don't use Vaseline on rubber, neoprene or similar products. Vaseline will ruin these products and it will begin almost immediately. The original seal was a molded rubber labyrinth design and was very creatively made so it drained (to prevent the vent from sitting in water and rusting. If you have a simple stamped cut foam seal, it will lack any possible draining scheme and you'll get rust around the perimeter of your vent. If you don't have the rather firm labyrinth design, please keep looking. You do know you have to adjust the cowl vent after you remove it, yes? Also the molded labyrinth type has an upper side and a lower side. The one I recently replaced came from The Filling Station and fit perfectly.

Thanks Jon; no I won't be using Vaseline just a passing thought.

This one is a firm (hard) neoprene seal that is identical from side to side (so flip it over, it doesn't matter). Flat as a board as well. I've adjusted the cowl vent, the seal itself simply has a wider footprint than the cowl vent itself. I'm going to try chamfering the edges so that the vent itself can "grab" the seal and slide over it. Otherwise, there's no physical way this seal will work. Like I say, it's so firm that the vertical adjustment is forced out when I try and compress the seal by closing the vent. Which is obviously wrong.


1949 Chevrolet 3/4 Ton - Still Solid. Regular Driver
OT Vehicles:
1925 Hudson Brougham Super Six
1950 Chevrolet Styline (Parts)
1952 Canuck Pontiac Sedan Delivery (Well Underway)
1973 F250 4x4 Highboy
1977 F250 4x4 Lowboy
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,480
AD Addict & Tinkerer
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Originally Posted by Jon G
The one I recently replaced came from The Filling Station and fit perfectly.
I looked at the seals available from the Filling station and one is made by Steele Rubber. It doesn‘t say if its a labyrinth seal or not. Is that the one you used?


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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Yes, as I recall Steele made the one I got. It was expensive...I want to say maybe $35 or so? Several years ago I also bought one from a place called ChevyDuty and it was the right molded design. I have no idea who made it, but it worked fine. This would have been in the 80s.

If you have a hard and flat piece of rubber, I can pretty well promise that will be difficult, although the hard flat part might cause it to harbor water a bit less.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
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Interesting... pretty sure this one cost about the same (in USD) so that part's not an issue. Yup just hard and flat, no flexibility or pliability at all (vertically that is). If that's the case I'll get this one functional for now but go looking for the Steele Rubber one right away.

Thanks both!

Last edited by NorthCoast3800; 04/20/2021 11:04 PM.

1949 Chevrolet 3/4 Ton - Still Solid. Regular Driver
OT Vehicles:
1925 Hudson Brougham Super Six
1950 Chevrolet Styline (Parts)
1952 Canuck Pontiac Sedan Delivery (Well Underway)
1973 F250 4x4 Highboy
1977 F250 4x4 Lowboy
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,491
J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
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Hard and flat sounds like it was made from solid neoprene or some other rubber compound with a shore durometer value about the same as a tire. That seal ought to have a slightly firm but compressible nature...a hardness between your door seals and vent window seals.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,480
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Originally Posted by Jon G
It was expensive...I want to say maybe $35 or so?
It’s selling for $43.99 plus shipping. Sounds like it worth the extra cost!

Last edited by Phak1; 04/20/2021 11:48 PM.

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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100% agree on the compressibility. I just got it to sit slightly proud by cutting the outer perimeter, but getting it to sit tight enough to seal remains a challenge (it just does not want to well, compress!). If it was slightly softer, the final close would seal it - but that force required on the lever is significant (and my vertical adjustment ends up slipping when I apply that much force).

Will order one of those Steele gaskets right away.

Edit: Shipping to Canuckistan from the one supplier will be a minimum of $55 USD (about $80-90 Canuck) so I'll keep searching for that...I will if I have to but I'm sure I can dig one up for a little less.

Thanks very much!

Last edited by NorthCoast3800; 04/21/2021 5:00 AM.

1949 Chevrolet 3/4 Ton - Still Solid. Regular Driver
OT Vehicles:
1925 Hudson Brougham Super Six
1950 Chevrolet Styline (Parts)
1952 Canuck Pontiac Sedan Delivery (Well Underway)
1973 F250 4x4 Highboy
1977 F250 4x4 Lowboy
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,480
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Originally Posted by NorthCoast3800
Shipping to Canuckistan from the Filling Station will be a minimum of $55 USD (about $80-90 Canuck)
Ouch! Shipping these days is a killer. I don’t blame you for looking elsewhere.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
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'Bolter
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I tried some new bolts in the vertical adjustment and made sure the tabs were fully bent out (per the "Servicing Truck Cabs" instructions) and it is thankfully doing a better job of sealing now. But I don't think the gasket modification is a great one, considering it allows water to sit in the space.

Edit: Located one direct from Steele, shipping was "tolerable". The joys of international shipping, especially these days... but It's on the way! smile

Last edited by NorthCoast3800; 04/21/2021 3:51 AM.

1949 Chevrolet 3/4 Ton - Still Solid. Regular Driver
OT Vehicles:
1925 Hudson Brougham Super Six
1950 Chevrolet Styline (Parts)
1952 Canuck Pontiac Sedan Delivery (Well Underway)
1973 F250 4x4 Highboy
1977 F250 4x4 Lowboy
Joined: Nov 1995
Posts: 5,723
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Good feedback. FWIW, I got one of the hard, flat ones about 10 years ago for my truck. After 10 years, it still leaks. frown I, too, will look into the expensive one from Steele.


~ John

A kid raised on Hotwheels, Matchbox and Tonka cannot be reasonably expected to own only one vehicle as an adult.

1949 Chevrolet 3804
In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum
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Originally Posted by NorthCoast3800
Edit: Located one direct from Steele, shipping was "tolerable". The joys of international shipping, especially these days... but It's on the way! smile
I agree with John, good feedback. I have to get one for my ‘52 and I will definitely buy one from Steele.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
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Renaissance Man
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I have gotten so mad at the lack of quality of the rubber cowl seals, that I bought 2 the soft foam seals.
I put one in the cowl, but it would not seal, so I added the other one to the underside of the vent. I had to shorten it so that it would fit by cutting out about 3/8".
No more leaks!


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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'Bolter
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My Steele Rubber gasket showed up this week which is incredibly fast these days compared to other stuff I've had shipped lately. It is a MUCH different seal than the one I installed above. This one has a lip and is noticeably more malleable (as others stated).

Unfortunately this weekend is tied up so I won't likely get to this for another week yet, but I'll update when I do!

Last edited by NorthCoast3800; 05/13/2021 9:18 PM.

1949 Chevrolet 3/4 Ton - Still Solid. Regular Driver
OT Vehicles:
1925 Hudson Brougham Super Six
1950 Chevrolet Styline (Parts)
1952 Canuck Pontiac Sedan Delivery (Well Underway)
1973 F250 4x4 Highboy
1977 F250 4x4 Lowboy

Moderated by  klhansen 

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