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Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Jan 1970 Posts: 365 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 1970 Posts: 365 | Last Saturday a guy I help with antique tractors bought a M211 GMC Duece and a Half. After some tinkering I was able to get it running. The points were gapped incorrectly and had a little oxide on them, and after I set them I got it to run fairly well. This still has all the sealed components from the military, including the ignition, carburetor, and generator.
My question is in regard to the spark plugs. It looks like after you remove the wire from the plug that it just takes a deep well socket to remove the plug. Is there anything else about this I should know? I DO NOT want to break a plug as I do not know where I would find another one in McCook, NE.
This is quite a truck in remarkably good shape considering it has been outside most of its life. It still had the service records in the glove box. If anyone could point me to a site that would decode the serial number and the US Army number so I could give my friend some history about his new purchase, I would be grateful.
Thanks in advance for your help! | | | | | Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 221 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 221 | Racecarl! This might help! http://www.flmvpa.org/links/mv.htm Regards, George | | | | | Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 197 Member | | Member Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 197 | You don't have to use the shielded plug wires and plugs. Check out: http://www.ki7xh.com/wirecon.htm
Jason
| | | | | Joined: Jan 1970 Posts: 365 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 1970 Posts: 365 | Last afternoon my friend calls me and says we have to move the truck tonight or it will be towed. I went through the plugs-other than being slightly worn they are OK. The engine still would not run much above idle.
I checked the valve adjustment, which was a little off, but not far enough to cause problems. I removed the distributor cap and had someone spin the engine over, when I noticed a BIG spark arcing at the points. A voltage test revealed 24 volts going to the coil. I removed the resistor that is supposed to drop the voltage down only to find that there was no resistance across the coil. After double-checking the resistor, I got it to read 6 ohms, which would drop the voltage down enough to save the points. I re-installed the resistor, cleaned and reset the points, and the 302 GMC finally ran like it was supposed to. I was genuinely impressed with the power put out by this engine.
We took the truck to a local shop that has the time and equipment to go through the brake cylinders. What a beast!!! | | |
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