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#14064 04/30/2004 5:09 PM | Joined: May 2003 Posts: 111 Member | | Member Joined: May 2003 Posts: 111 | Quick question: Was the T-5 used in 4cyl S-10s? Will it fit with a 250 (using earlier mods discussed)? I have a file at the house on it, but don't have access to it at work and was just offered a free 85 S-10.
Thanks in advance.
35 + years of rollin' steel!
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#14065 04/30/2004 5:24 PM | Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 620 "MONGO" | | "MONGO" Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 620 | Yes the T5 was used in some of the 4 banger S10's. I've got a spreadsheet of the Tag numbers and different applications Here . Not too sure on the T5 to 250 Setup I do have a buddy that set one up I'll hollar at him and see what he says. I know it's not as easy as the swap to an earlier inline (216/235/261) I seem to remember he had to have a spacer made or something. Mongo | | |
#14066 04/30/2004 5:28 PM | Joined: May 2003 Posts: 111 Member | | Member Joined: May 2003 Posts: 111 | Mongo, you're a life saver. Thanks.
35 + years of rollin' steel!
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#14067 04/30/2004 5:55 PM | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 1,586 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 1,586 | Should bolt up with the smae slight modifications to the clutch shaft as when used behind a 235/261.The center hole diameter ,bolt pattern and distance from the clutch housing mating face to the flywheel is the same or very close I believe.If your 250 uses a truck clutch housing from a 67 or newer that was designed for a truck type low gear four speed, the center hole will be too large. | | |
#14068 04/30/2004 7:26 PM | Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 620 "MONGO" | | "MONGO" Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 620 | Ok, here's what my buddie who is working on doing this said, I thought he already had it done but turns out not yet. My combonation is a late '50's early '60's belhousing (for the rear mount) that was modified to allow room for the later model starter and a 153 tooth flywheel.
You could use the earlier year starter that would bolt to the bellhousing instead. With a little work, you might even be able to retain the foot switch for the starter. I will be finding out. The T-5 bolts right up to the bellhousing but this bellhousing is 1/2" narrower than the 235's, so I will be contacting a machinist, hint, hint.. to machine a spacer plate that will compensate for this and the extra little bit that one needs to remove from the front of the T-5 to work with the 235, so that it will bolt right in without any mods to the T-5. I will use the original 235 10" clutch pressure plate with the Jeep clutch disk and original throwout bearing and clutch arm. Hope that makes sense and helps I'm having trouble visualizing it myself. I will get pictures when he gets it setup and post them if there is interest. Either way I'd say take the S10 if you've got a place to keep it. Free is Free  I've got a 91' S10 I got for free torn down at the farm waiting for me to get a cab (54 GMC)fixed up and on it. MONGO | | |
#14069 04/30/2004 7:49 PM | Joined: May 2003 Posts: 111 Member | | Member Joined: May 2003 Posts: 111 | I'm gonna take the truck. If I can make it run (slow turn over, no start. Starter/Battery good), I'll use it for a DD and move the 68 to a backup truck. If not, I'll steal the tranny.
My 68 C-10 originally had the 3spd Muncie (4 bolt side cover). I converted it to a 4 spd (SM420), but didn't have to change any clutch stuff or housing.
The way I understand the coversion to T-5 is:
a) shorten input shaft.
b) bore out the 4 mounting bolts (to clutch housing) to 1/2". Use nut and bolt (lockwasher/Loctite) on lower.
c) Change clutch disk to a 9.5" from a 83 Astrovan.
d) find someone nice to build a 1 piece driveshaft. Put a catch strap under driveshaft to avoid polevaulting at freeway speeds.
e) Figure out some way to get the speedo working (mechanical or electronic sensor on T-5 + Seattle cops have no sense of humor)
Comments or experience?
35 + years of rollin' steel!
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#14070 05/01/2004 5:04 PM | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | Your list of what to do is about right,shorten imput 1/4" and front bearing retainer 1". The 85 will still be cable driven speedo so that is good.
The disk you use should be mocked up first as they seem to very in design on every one I get. Some will put the hub to far back and you will run out of splines which if used will force the disc into the flywheel so it will not release.
Some but not all 4 cyl transmissions I have seen have to low of first gear and only a 10 percent
overdrive not 30 percent like you want. Mark the shafts and turn the front shaft one revolution in fifth and you want the rear shaft to turn a little over 1 1/4 turns.
One more thing, if the front shaft seems loose do the following: While you have the front bearing retainer off for shortining you will see the front race spins free in the retainer( dont ask me why they all do). Under the bearing race is a shim that sets bearing preload (it will be worn from the turning race). You can just flip the shim over which will put the wear spots away fron contact and reinstall the race only this time use loctite to prevent the race from moving again.
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