The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay 54 3100 Fuel Gauge/Electrical issue

Fellow Stovebolters.

Was enjoying a great drive, and almost back to the house, when the fuel gauge went from 3/4 to E in an instant. Coasted to a stop. Turned the key off and back on, gauge remained at E.

Waited a bit, turned key on, gauge came on. Tried to start, but she wouldn't catch. Attempted a number of times, eventually wouldn't crack at all (worn down battery). Got towed home. Hooked up battery jump start, turned on key, gauge on, and she started.

Weak battery issue? Interesting as when I start my trips the Charging needle is on the "C" side and gradually works its way to the center as I drive.

Have not had a weak/bad battery cause a shutdown, especially after driving almost 30 miles.

Anyone have a similar challenge?

Thanks
Joe

I would start at the battery terminals and grounds. That could cause your symptoms. Let us know what you find and we’ll go from there.

My 54 when years ago would run and when it would get warm would not start even with a boost ,turned out it was the ground .New paint on motor once cleaned up problem solved .

UPDATE

Went to the garage this morning. She started right up.

Proceeded to clean and re-connect battery terminals and connectors. They looked good, but pulled, cleaned and re-tightened.

Went underneath to check the ground. Bolt was rusty, and some rust on the connection. Disconnected, wire brushed frame, connection, & secured with new bolt. Started right up.

Getting some rain, so test drive on hold.

I read over your previous posts. You have had your share of electrical issues. Hang in there.
I looked at a 54 wiring diagram and the ignition switch feeds (pink wires) the ignition coil and fuel tank level sensor.
Get where I'm coming from?
The other side of the ignition switch (red wire) connects to "B" on the voltage regulator that you just replaced.
I would make sure the wiring is good (not broken or loose etc.) at the voltage regulator.
If this looks good, check the wiring on the ignition switch.
If this looks good maybe you have a intermittent ignition switch.

When you work in areas of old wiring, get into the habit of cleaning the terminals and connectors even though it's a pain.
This stuff is over 50 years old and needs a little help. A light coating of anti-corrosion, after cleaning, may work wonders.

I don’t know if you realize but it was May of 2014 when jwc posted his issue with the voltage regulator.

I do believe you may be on to something with the wiring from the VR.

Thanks Phil. Assuming Joe has been driving the truck any at all then my next thought would be the switch itself.
I had the same problem with my 50. It would just die on the road. New switch solved my problem.
I took the old switch apart and it was simply worn and not making good contact.
I would still check wiring on voltage regular to eliminate it as a possibility.

To All

Thank you for the info. Will do a systematic check of wiring, connections, voltage regulator, and back to switch.

Will provide an update.

R/Joe

UPDATE

Systematic wiring check seems to go fine.

At warm idle, I get 5.85V at the battery, at fast idle up to 6.40v and slowly climbing

New info, the key cylinder is loose in the ignition switch. possible replace?

I noticed the bezel ring has four notches, assume a screw driver place in one will rotate the bezel.

jwc Have noticed the batteries don't seem to have as good a dependability as they once had ! Not sure what it is,on modern stuff if that computer doesn't see the right thing it may shut down !

Be careful with that bezel. Replacement bezels nuts are 3 pin. I made my own removal tool from a piece a pipe with holes drilled for roll pins (same idea for windshield wiper tower). A screwdriver can mar the finish on the bezel. Try to tighten the nut first. If it's not loose then the switch may be worn inside. There are several parts. Housing, tumbler, bezel and lamp socket. New repop switch parts are hit-n-miss in my experience so you may have to buy the housing and tumbler to get a combination that works okay. You can purchase a replacement type switch if you are not concerned about originality.

This has been discussed in this forum many times before but a 6 volt system requires 2/0 battery cables minimum. Preferably one made with real copper and not clad material. If you buy a new 6 volt battery and use typical skinny 12 volt cables, don't blame the battery.