The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Panels 'N Burbs Carryall stationary side glass edge trim

Hi all, I had new glass cut for my cabin but unfortunately the stainless edge trim that runs on the stationary pieces was epoxied to the old glass and looks to be inseparable or at least unusable(damaged by process) if I were to work that bond apart (open to suggestions)...

Wondering if anyone has sourced any pieces in aftermarket boating or otherwise to at least mimic these pieces. I have a few ideas but didn't want to order anything till I polled the informed crowd here.

Thanks!

Swizcore, what exactly are you working on? GM started making the Suburban in 1935 and is still making them today. You'll have to narrow it down a little.

I googled this

how do you dissolve epoxy glue

and came up with a few products. Goof off is usually pretty good. I'd definitely read the label first if there is something adjacent to the trim you are trying to save that you do not want damaged.

Oops, it’s a 55 1st series.

Mirror channel. Shower channel. Car door edging. All kinds of chrome glass edging available.
Stainless or chrome J channel or U channel.

I prefer solid side glass, no sliders.

I like (and, my passengers like) the sliding side windows on my 1954 Suburban (A-D, Advance-Design series).

Nothing rattles and nothing leaks. I used new "seals".

However, I wish I had cleared the drain-holes/drain-tubes in the body below each side window.

Nothing better than the original slider windows in these old burbs. One piece windows, no thanks, unless you want a oven inside your Burb during the summer.

I apologize for the distraction. You just asked for trim.

Back on track folks! Let's help Swizcore either break the epoxy bond between his old glass and stainless pieces, or find a reasonable replacement. I vote for finding a way to save the originals.


I would caveman the glass out of there and carefully scrape the rest out.

Epoxy will let go with a little heat. It's only good up to about 300F. Bake it in the oven or gingerly use a propane torch. If the trim is painted, you'll probalby have to redo that, but chrome or stainless should stand the heat if you don't overheat.

Are you sure it's epoxy? Glass setting tape (rubberized stuff that's surely turned to a rock over the years) can be loosened by soaking it with solvent. The service manual says gasoline!!

Lay trim on carpet and ship out glass and bonding material as said by MNSmith. Doubt if it is epoxy, lots of material turns to rock as Kevin said. Try not to dent the SS. But It can be straightened and polished.

Going caveman steps:
1. Gently tap glass and bonding out, in you nice clothes.
2. Hit it a little harder
3. Bigger hammer
4. Try a solvent wearing safety glasses. Change to your old levis and shirt.
5. Try gasoline to loosen it.
6. Change to just shorts and a wife beater shirt.
7. Light the gasoline on fire.
8. Swing it with a chain attached, while on fire, against a block wall.
9. Torch it with oxy torch while on fire.
10. Stop for a raw meat lunch eaten with hands and drink ale from a wooden jug.
11. Sleep outside overnight. On the ground.
12. Next morning: Order some chrome mirror edging or something like that.
13. Clean up your mess. Shave and comb your hair.

I like and appreciate all these suggestions. I'm on vacation till Tuesday but when I return I will give it my best effort to re-use the originals. Plenty of methods to try thanks to you guys. My glass guy said it was epoxy and upon first look to me I'd say it is indeed either epoxy or possibly 3M Yellow Super Weatherstrip Adhesive. In my experience I can be more stubborn than many of these jigsaw puzzles I come up against.. I'm optimistic and will report back.

Yabba Dabba Doo

LOL, bartamos! Can we skip to step #10?

Hey guys just wanted to report back, my glass guy found these which appear to be near an OEM replacement. [img]https://i.postimg.cc/hGF6FQQK/33-B35-B07-FBEE-430-E-8-D71-5-EA094-B7-DBB4.jpg[/img]

It seems you may have to buy a case of 25 96" long pieces.

I contacted them and they do sell individual 96” sticks for $84 each plus a $30 shipping fee(to Michigan in my case) but I found a supplier online that gets a 96” stick to me for just shy of $80 delivered.

That info will be very useful to others on Stovebolt now and in the future. Very good follow up Swizcore.

Just to be as comprehensive as possible, here is the link to the product page I mentioned before in my pricing description.

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=4483343